12 hours in Osaka

Day 17

I woke up to someone's feet in my face from the top bunk and in dismay, I turned away to continue sleeping but couldn't. It was time to get up.

I jotted down my places of interest in Osaka during breakfast. And left before noon. I stopped by at Higashi Honganji temple which is known as Shinshu Honbyo. One of the largest Buddhist denominations in Japan and the hall is one of the largest wooden constructions in the world (rebuilt in 1895 after a fire destroyed some parts). It teaches Shinran which is a path to self-awakening. The temple is now the headquarters of the Ontani Branch of Jodo Shin-shu. I won't go on because I didn't stay long.

I walked to the under-path to the JR. Line and you know how in London, people cross the road at the sight of no cars and mainly just to avoid waiting for the walk sign (because they feel safe enough to cross). In Japan, even when there are no cars in sight, no body crosses! Or when the traffic light is red, the cars have stopped but only the walk sign hasn't turned green but yet still nobody crosses. Not until it's green (despite the red lights!). I crossed one (on a small road) and people looked at me as if I murdered a cat. I didn't do it again but waiting to cross is boring. Especially when there are no cars!! 

I took the JR Line to Osaka from Kyoto central Station following the sign that said 'For Osaka'. I was going up platform 5 then people started running so I did too. I jumped on the train then it left but I was unaware if it was going to Osaka so I waited to see. It takes 28minutes to get to Osaka so I timed the journey. If i was 30minutes in, I'm on the wrong train. The Japanese don't joke about their times. I went the second fastest way to Osaka by JR Shinkaisoku train which is 540Y each way. The Shinkansen train is 2730Y each way and only 15minutes faster. I think I can survive waiting an extra 15 and saving money for the next two days, jheeze. I didn't go through the budget option to get to Kyoto though as I didn't have time to waste. Although you could catch the night express bus which takes 7-8 hours from Tokyo to Kyoto/Osaka and is perhaps 3000-5000Y less. I contemplated whether I should have taken the bus though. If you had planned your trip before coming to Japan, you could buy a Japan Rail Pass in the UK but before coming to Japan (tourists cannot purchase this in Japan-sucks I know)! It's cheaper as a round trip but I didn't know what I was going to do so unfortunately I missed out on a great cheaper opportunity. Do bare this in mind when planning your trip to Japan. 

I arrived exactly after 28minutes and was glad to have been on the correct train. I followed the crowd to the exit and immediately got hold of a map. I had 12hours. 

Osaka has a population of 19million and appears to be overshadowed by Tokyo. Economically, Osaka is actually the 7th largest city in the world after Paris. In the working heart of Kansai, Osaka is famous for the gruff manners of citizens and eating. I went to Osaka to experience a modern Japanese city (it's also a port city) as Tokyo is extremely urban. 

I went straight to Umeda Sky Building through the Grand Front Osaka shopping mall and crossed the road to get to an under-path. Turn right and cross the road and again on your left and you will see the under-path entrance (Umeda Sky building is right on the other side). It's close to the central exit of Osaka city station so you can't get lost. 

People in business attires walked around among school children in bucket hats, collar tags and lunch boxes. Site F is the FunFun Plaza which provided the observatory viewing so head up to floor 3 via the escalators. This is where I got the lift to go further up. I joined the lift with an American and he kept making me laugh with how nervous he was going up the lift to the 35th Floor. We then had to go up a narrow escalator surrounded by guarded windows. The American had his eyes closed the whole way while I kept saying it was okay and the sight was beautiful! This leads to the observatory deck and ticket office for the floating garden. I didn't feel the need to go up there as the pictures on that floor showed me enough and what I had seen was more than enough. Admission is 800Y for adults (no student prices). Luckily it was a nice day as I got to see the city from up top and work out what was where. 

The building is 173m high and fitted with great safety measures which is earthquake-proof and protected from any form of disaster. The floating garden at the top is surrounded by mirror windows that cover the building. It beautifully reflects the sky on surface and it so appears as if the garden is floating in the blue. The 'mirrors' make it look like one building rather than two!

Calculating the time I had, I went back the same way and headed to the nearest subway through the Grand Front Osaka again. I walked to Hep Five building where the big red Ferris wheel was. It's completely red to match the shopping mall interior plan; or was the interior plan supposed to match the Ferris Wheel? It costs about 700Y to go up but have you been on the London eye? No? Exactly so. 

(If you have then good for you, I've been to the one in Belfast and it was slow)

My all day subway ticket was 800Y so my first stop was Shinsaibashi station for America-mura, Sankaku Park. 200Y more expensive than Tokyo, I was confused. The place is a drag of a shopping strip with many arcade rooms, imported American products. bright colours and unnecessary billboards so people say it's the place to be. You will find clothes on sale, lingerie, Indian imported fashion clothing, Japanese Surperdrugs, restaurants and more clothing shops. Men are seen drinking beer at all times of the day and I had thought it was what Japan had in common with England. Oi oooooi'

I walked all the way up to Hommachi stop in time for the subway. I took it again on the Midosuji Line to Namba for Dotombori. Identical to where I have just been but better at night time(I was there during the day so planned to return in the evening). Bigger and wider, people are visually seen crossing the road to enter into further shopping strips. It's hard to tell who is local or who is a tourist. You'd catch Japanese taking selfies where I do. If you like shopping then this is a place for you. 

My next stop was to Shinsekan which has been my favourite stop since I had been to Japan. So many different colours, designs, styles 

I walked through some sort of alley where all the Japanese style pubs are found. They are very small with low ceilings that could fit up to atleast 8 people at a time. I chose one bar and took an Asahi beer break at a standing pub which was weird. My beer costed me 350Y which meant I weren't allowed icecream or any snacks today. I stayed for a while talking to a man with a translation app on a phone. He was so enthusiastic to speak English despite not knowing the language or even the basics. I weren't enthusiastic to speak Japanese (I already know it's so hard) so I couldn't feel the same way. The bar tenders also used the app to ask me questions until an English speaking customer came in and did the job. He lived in Canada for a year to study being the benefactor to learning English. The bar tenders were 21 and 23 and really surprised to find that I was 20. Drinking in Japan is for 20 year olds and over. In some places you have to be 21, especially to buy alcohol in the shop. One of the bar tenders called Koko finished work at 4 which wasn't long ahead and offered to walk me to one of my places of interest on my list. Apparently it wasn't far. The man I had been speaking to initially offered to buy me another drink but I kindly said no so instead he paid for the drink I had finished. He was extremely kind and waved me goodbye many a time. So I had saved 350Y and planned to have ice cream soon! 

We walked to Abeno Harukas which was getting bigger and higher as we got closer. The building is stuck together with 3 counterparts of shopping malls, hotel rooms and offices like a step up ladder. It's higher than Umeda Sky building and more expensive(1500Y) to go up and see Osaka from up top. Ofcourse I didn't bother. The girl I was with, Koko, was so small, every step I took, she took three. Her voice was very high and squeaky and she was so tiny like i could fit her in my bag. We separated as we made our own way to different subways. We kept waving at each other and I didn't know when to stop. Eventually I turned around and the waving fanatic was over. 

I took the nearby subway to Tanimachi 4-chome changing on the chuo line to visit the Osaka castle at Morinomiya station. I got off a stop too early and ended up going the wrong way having to go back again to the subway. 

Do note the transfer between leaving the station, getting to your platform, entering the under path for the subway is just so long! Sometimes you're walking pass so many shops under ground, you'd think you're not going to your subway line. It's not straight forward like London which was annoying. It got annoying after a while anyway. 

I walked out exit 3 for Osaka Castle and could see the castle right up when climbing the stairs. I had seen that it was far and expected to walk a long way. I walked through the Citizens Forest Zone and followed the sign to the main temple which was Osaka Castle. In the big space, you'd find children in swimming suits playing in the fountain, people exercising (especially 60+) and pinic'ers. It's a big park with deep green leaves trees and colourful gardens. It was a mission to reach the castle but it was a nice day so I didn't mind. Up the hill, up the stairs, left path, round the gate, through the gate and straight up. 

Surrounded by smaller castles, gates, stone walls, moats and a river, just like you see in the movies (when castles at war are secured with water between getting over and on land) with golden details. I was aware that it has been rebuilt several times because of attacks at different times. The intention of the castle was to become central of a newly unified Japan under the Toyotomi rule. Soon after he died, the castle was attacked in 1615. It was rebuilt 5 years later but the main castle tower was hit by lightening and burnt down again. It was rebuilt with concrete construction which survived the city air raids! Today, the castle is a modern make with an elevator inside. Can you believe? Now a museum.

I moved onto Osakako which was a long way East of Osaka city. About 25minutes on the Chou (green) line I rest my feet. Exit at 1 and walk down to the bottom of the stairs and walk straight about 300m. The port is at this end and I got there in time for sunset. There was the Giant Ferris wheel, tempozan marketplace(with discover legoland), tempozan pier, pier of Santa Maria and Kaiyukan (Osaka aquarium). I strolled around watching the people taking it easy with my feet. There are many Japanese souvenirs you can buy but  I saw it as a jumble sale where they make you buy things you don't need. I was tempted to buy a kimono which I saw for 3000Y (cheapest I've seen) but I imagined that I would never wear it. Just like when I bought a Chinese garment - have you ever seen me wear it?. 

I was tempted to go to Universal World which was close by but I wouldn't have money to enter so I gave it a miss and planned it for when I come back. Or instead I could head to the actual one in America. 

On the same line, I went to Tenjinbashisuji shopping street changing on the Sakaisuji line. There were two Russians sitting opposite each shouting as they chat. There were spaces next to them for them to sit together and chat quietly. Instead they chose not to and disturbed the whole carriage. I seemed to be the only one bothered by this! By then my legs ached whenever I walk up the stairs. My energy was running out and I was already stupid tired. At my transfer, the platform had people queuing at where the train door would stop. You would never see London doing this. 

When I got out, the sky was deep blue but it wasn't dark. The shopping street is the longest street in Japan. I didn't plan on walking down the whole way because ow. 

Exit 4b, turn right immediately then take your first right up the street. 

Like an indoor tunnel, the street had food, clothing and restaurants. Again. I tried to find my mum some traditional Japanese loud Flip flips but we have big feet as a family and I couldn't find one bigger than a size 5! I found men's ones but they were twice the price and wayy too large. My search was to be continued. 

I took the same line back South to Nippombashi for the Kuromo market to see if I could find one. I bought green tea ice cream just because it was everyone and took a gamble with my money to see if I liked it. To be honest it was plain and the taste left a nasty mark on you as you lick but it was creamy so. A butterfly landed on my ice cream and for those who don't know. I hate butterflies. As I tried to flick it off, my ice cream ball fell off the cup and I just stood there. People didn't mind me but obviously noticed a green ball slowly melting on the floor so it had second looks. I was unsure whether I was upset because I had spent money and wasted it, whether I should have bought it earlier on or the fact that even if the butterfly eventually flew off I still wouldn't have eaten it. I threw the cup in a bin that was somehow next to me!? I told myself no afternoon snacks the next day for I have wasted 200Y. I hated butterflies even more. Instead I had dinner a little later at one of the restaurants in the tunnel. The menu was in complete Japanese so all I relied on were pictures. I had what looked like fried squid or maybe it was an octopus in a shell and salad. I didn't know what it was and the chef couldn't tell me either. He pointed at the animal in the water and I felt really clueless. It was squishy and tasteless but it was also ticked off my list of the things not to try again. It was cheap so I didn't mind. 

I took a stop to Dotomobori to see it at night and was I impressed? No.

I then took the Midosuji which is the red line back to Umeda for Osaka Grand station. I was so hoping I hadn't missed the last train back to Kyoto so all i could do was sit and wait. Then hurried through the following signs towards JR Osaka Sta searching for my platform like a spaz.

Luckily, I was fine so I took the next train back to Kyoto which took just under 30minutes after 4 stops. 

Upon my arrival, I went up the roof top of Kyoto for their famous sky view garden. I went up 8 escalators (which goes up so slowly) and

I had felt relaxed and pleased about my day. It was soon bedtime for me so I walked back to the hostel and prepared for an early night for my speedy Kyoto city tour before heading back to Tokyo. I was gutted to be leaving. 

Shinkansen to Kyoto!

Day 16

In most cases, you are sitting on the floor in Japan. I found myself on the floor while eating breakfast where I had a buttered bread roll from 7/11 with tea I had kept from another hostel. I was happy I carried my tea bags around with me as Japanese tea is disgusting. It's flowers soaked in hot water. While eating, I planned my day. I'm in Kyoto for only three days. 

In Japan, you have to leave your room every morning at 11 so they can clean. Everyday. To many people this is a pain but I didn't mind it. 

It rained today so I was getting attacked by umbrellas. I never bother with one because they're so much effort and you still get wet somehow anyway. I took the Orange (Ginza) Line to Ueno to change for Tokyo on another line. I caught the Shinkansen train (bullet) to Kyoto on platform 18 (final destination Hakata) which left bang on time. One comes every minute so I calmly walked there. It was the Nozoumi Superexpress No.31 bound train. Its' interior looks like a plane! It was 4 stops to Kyoto, South of Japan and my ticket was unreserved for carriage 1-3 and I sat two seats to myself. 

I prepared for the journey which I didn't know how long would take. The one way tickets (no return or student prices) for this is so expensive but I got over it quickly. It was either a bullet train or a bus which would take 799965hours. Sooo. 

You can manage with about 3000Yen a day which is £15. Excluding accommodation, I manage with up to 1,500Yen a day on public transport, food and tourist admissions in places of interest. As I have mentioned before there are hardly any tourists in Japan. And it was even more nicer for the locals not to mind me. They mind their own business as I roam around the city, trains and restaurants. I was curious why hardly any foreigners were here though. Really curious. 

The train is white and extremely smooth and the seats are blue. I look out to see the rain falling off the window determining how fast the train is moving. I used my time to read about Japan while snacking like a child. It had stopped raining within 30minutes out of Tokyo. People came on and off different stops and I was no longer alone on the 3rd stop. It didn't feel like 2 and a half hours when I arrived. I follows the exit sign all the way out of the station which took a while. The station is huge and I was struggling to find outside! 

I opened out the Kyoto city map and attempted to walk to the hostel based on the directions they had provided and it was okay. I became really good at map reading as I should have been. It was quite a walk from the station but once you get the hang of it, it's usually quicker. 

I checked in (about £13 a night) at K's House Kyoto which is supposed to be really popular. They also had a lift, luckily as I was on the 6th floor! I stayed in a female dorm room so I didn't have to put up with any horrible snoring (in bed before sleeping, a girl was vibrating the whole room so my plan failed). No shoes were allowed inside (they even give you a locker key for it) and you are given house slippers to wear. In Japan you make your own bed which is nice but sometimes you just want what you pay for. 'Darling, it's not a home stay'. 

I locked away my bag in my room which was fully occupied then walked out in the rain to grab some food before heading to Inari. Back at Kyoto Station on the Brown (Nara) JR. Line at lane 8/9, I was unsure if I was going the right way so I took a gamble and got on a train. Hardly anything is in English and I had realised that Kyoto was far more local and rural-like. The city is surrounded by mountains on three sides. Suburbs behaviour - one of the most bike-friendly cities but sadly I don't have time to hire one! It'ss rich, lively but quiet lively.

Being thrifty did not mean I miss out on some of the amazing food Japan had to offer. The problem was that I don't like seafood and it's everywhere and I just couldn't try any. It smells like the sea and that's extremely off putting. Udon had been my favourite back home so eating it in Japan was even better. I had been eating soup and noodles since I got here for very cheap (at 100-400Y) at random places. I told myself to try something crazy before I leave. I trust I will (if I have crazy-food money left).

Spending time here, I had noticed the extreme differences between Japan and China. I sat on the train very briefly to Inari (it took 5minutes!) watching the passengers. I got off at my stop to follow the sign to Fushima Inari-taisha Shrine and it was right outside! The entrance is free and it's always open. 

The temple Fushimi Inari Shrine is really important in southern Kyoto dedicated to Inari, leader of rice. Famous for thousands of its torii gates (red with block bottoms); the trail is set behind the main building leading to the forest of the sacred Mount Inari. It stands 233 meters which doesn't sound high but I can tell you myself that it was. The statues of foxes (I was trying to figure out what they were!) are thought to be Inari's messengers across the shrine grounds. 

As I was walking round exploring through thousands of torii gates basically following others, I was so unaware I was climbing Mount Inari! I was walking for so long up and down through more and more of the gates and kept stopping to find out where I was and how long I had until I can finish. Popular with tourists, you actually need to walk around the mountain rather than just take pictures of the front and leave. What's wrong with you?

 I kept walking upwards anyway getting slower and heavier - don't stop otherwise you would completely lose your energy to continue. The back of the shrine's leads towards the torii gate which is the start of the hiking trail. The parallel rows of gates are called Senbon Torii which literally means 'thousands of torii gates'. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies. The names of the donator and date of donation is written (black) on the back of each gate. Starting at 400,000Yen for a small gate to over one million yen for a large gate. Crazy. 

In an anti-climactic feel, I finally reached The Ichinomine shrine (spot 14) which is at the very top after about 2 hours! I was sweating and my top was sticking on my back. Lovely. I stayed for a while watching people take pictures of the shrine. There are sacred water pots next to every temple you visit. People wash their hands and mouth every time, every temple.

There are 19 spots around the mountain and my ugly toes were digging into the front of my wet converses so I was crying on my way down. It was so so far down. 

The sky was grey and the forest lamps started to turn on along the way. People live up this mountain selling goodies and food but they weren't to be seen. I wanted to hurry down before it got darker so I kind of rushed down. As soon as I slipped landing on my bum, I slowed right down and it started to rained. Not quite sure what life was trying to achieve there.

I kept walking down taking pictures eventually arriving to the exit. Three hours I had spent around the mountains! I got back on the JR line to Kyoto and dropped my 'kit' back at the hostel. It was getting late so I planned to eat dinner and walk to Gion. For dinner I ate Tanuki Udon in fish paste broth at a nearby restaurant (Nakau). I was greeted with too much of a welcome and given tea that looked green which was horrible. They were quick, cheap and satisfactory. Udon are thick, white wheat noodles. Apparently it's perfectly okay to slurp your noodles in fact it is almost expected. So eating loudly was no problem. I'm so noisy when I eat! 

I had felt more safe in the dark while I have travelled than I ever did in London! The feeling of being free overwhelmed me as I walked to Gion District by Kamogawa river after dinner. Drunken couples and friends were sitting by the the edge drinking and laughing away.

Gion is Kyoto's traditional entertainment district. The best place in the city to catch a glimpse of 'Old Japan'. It is considered as the single most attractive street in the whole of Asia (I planned to return here during the day). To eat at Gion, it's ridiculously expensive, you'd have to posh or stupid enough to spend over £100 on food just because it's in a famous area. To spot a geisha arriving to an appointment is unlikely. Well let me explain. The Gion area is where Maiko and Geiko live. They move from one banquet to another by chance. There are black cars securing Geisha ladies and I saw two come out of one and enter a Japanese Inn (Hatanaka which is one of the highest ranking ryokans). Apparently it's a dream to see or meet one so there are package deals at almost £200 to eat with them and say hello. A standard meal is 10,000Y so they say it's a good deal or is it? Geisha is an icon that symbolises Japan. They have white-painted faces, Japanese hairstyle in a bun with accessories in it and colourful silk kimonos. Maiko and Geiko are the terms used to refer to Giesha in Kyoto. Kyoto is known as the historical former capital of Japan. There remain 100 Maiko which are apprentice Geisha and 200 Geiko which are matured Geisha. Maiko is under 20 starting her career from 15 to be a professional within Japanese culture and entertainment. They go to a special school specifically for this to learn tea ceremony, flower arrangement and traditional dance and music. When they turn 20 they become a Geiko. They way I went to see them was the cheapest option. Most people don't get to. 

I initially saw them as dressed up ladies who dine with paparazzi waiting around to snap them. That they were painted white and dressed traditionally in Japanese garment and white socks with loud wooden flip-flops. Basically. Their hair is tied back and wrapped with chopsticks. But after learning who and what they were, I understood. It made a lot of sense then. 

I carried on walking to Hanamikoji-dori to traditional eateries which require reservation and perhaps membership. The buildings were very low, of brown shades and all the doors were covered or hidden so you couldn't see inside. Then I carried on further up to Tatsumi bashi (I could have sworn I saw Jackie Chan!!! He looks old though! No?). Anyway, through windows people were dining on the floor with no shoes or given one. All of a sudden men in suits and women in gowns were strutting pass me entering different bouncer secured places. At least this time the bouncers were local. 

I crossed the bridge to Pontocho-dori which is more lively. I walked passed workers who are forced to stand outside restaurants and encourage people to eat inside. I walk pass, they nod then I nod but then they nod even more. Like they bend over. I'm always thinking if I do it back even longer, that would seem rude and a little awkward. I had seen girls here like to hold hands in a 5 year old way without sounding rude. 

I walked around until my feet were swollen then started walking back the same way (so I wouldn't get lost) home. I watched people clink their glasses together and wave their diamond covered fingers on river bank restaurants. For the first time in Japan, I had seen two homeless people sleeping on benches by trees. I got back in good hands and I drank tea again while reading about Osaka. Tomorrow; another day, another city. 

I love what I do.

12 hours around Tokyo'

Day 15

I had to be awake before 11am the next day to check in. Luckily this was the case otherwise I would have slept heavily until late noon. I arranged some transport and a stay in Kyoto and Osaka then Tokyo again. I made a plan of my day while my laundry was undergoing. I was staying at Khaosan Tokyo Kabuki in Asakusa in a mixed dorm. You make your own bed and breakfast. The hostel is very nice and I saw why it was so pricey. Most of the accommodation in Japan is not cheap so I was strictly under a budget. I understood that most of my money will be used on transport and accommodation. Accommodation is from £12-15 a night which is actually quite pricey. I had myself a £350 budget for the week including accommodation, transport, food and beverages. I also hoped to save atleast  £20 to use as an extra in my next country stop which will also be my last. 

Due to the Great East Japan Earthquake there was a power shortage in most places. In the hostel there were restrictions when using the electricity and air con. I didn't mind because then you realise how much you don't need it. The staff were extremely friendly and I was liking the vibe. 

I was ready with my plan and my maps, I started to walk around Asakusa for the Sensoji Temple which was only 5minutes from my hostel. It was busy with school children and tourists from all over Asia. It's a Buddhist temple which is Tokyo's most colourful and popular. The weather wasn't hot nor warm but it wasn't cold. I strolled along Nakamise Street where there are hundreds of stalls selling clothes, food and souvenirs but I didn't buy anything. I then walked to the SkyTree Tower through Sumida Park across the Red Bridge. It's not far from Asakusa so I saved 150Yen by walking. Usually the park is full of Cherry Blossomed Trees but not this season. Shame.

The SkyTree Tower (東京スカイツリー) is a television broadcasting tower and landmark of Tokyo. It's a new building but bang in the middle of human scale buildings. Japan is not exactly sky-scraping fantastic. To go up it costs just over 2000Yen with a 30minute queue. I hate queues. I didn't go up because it didn't fit my daily budget and it also didn't fit my wish list budget. I didn't mind not going up as there's always Google and a free view in another building. 

I walked back to Asakusa for the Orange (Ginza) Metro Line to Ueno. Only 5 minutes away but at first, the public transport in Japan was just too confusing. The subway is run under two different companies (toei line & metro line), going to different places and costing different. I planned to only use the Tokyo Metro line which is only 600Y for the whole day on all subways which is roughly £3! Unlike London which is three times the price! For both companies it costs 1000Y.

So I took the Orange (Ginza) line to Ueno G16 for their market, Ameyoko Arcade (it was one of the largest post-war black market). They had fresh fish, fruit (watermelon on ice lolly sticks) and vegs and clothing. They ain't cheap though! It's weird because it's part of a historic core of Shitmachi. You know what, there are a lot of 'shit'something words here - I need to find out what it means! The place also has international stores such as Uniqlo and H&M (which is everywhere so seeing it was getting boring). I stopped by Ueno Park which is free and is Tokyo's oldest public park. I did some temple-viewing and saw the statue of Saigo Takamori. Don't ask me what it is, I don't even know. Ueno also has a zoo but care for no animals I haven't seen so 'meh'. Tokyo National Museum costed 130Y for students to enter but sadly I had no time. Instead I read about it and moved on. 

I took the same line to Ginza G09 which is basically Oxford Circus of London. It's one of the most famous upmarket shopping districts in the world but nobody cares. Fashion label stores with millionaire brands and wife shoppers, and too many people. I didn't last long there. If you like shopping and paying for overweight luggage, this is so the place for you!

I then headed to Nijubashimae C10 which is on the green (Chidoya) line and visited the Eastern garden of the Imperial palace. It had great space with trees in front of high buildings and security was tight. The palace is the permanent residence of Japan's emperor and imperial family. I waved at them and they holla'd back(!). A recent birth of emperor Prince Hisahito meant the princesses are in debate about rights of ascension. Interesting, who will be on the throne next. But to be honest, I don't have such big interest in any royalty because they are where they are because of blood. Nothing else; it wasn't earned. So again, I don't care. I deeply apologise to all the royal fans but this is how I feel. They do not personally benefit me in any way possible. My opinions. 

Anyway, people are seen jogging along the path in front of the palace as if preparing for a marathon. It's been a while since my last run I thought. 

Transport here is similar to China's own with colour coded lines, ticket machines and the underground system. I got used to the transport system here so felt relaxed when journeying to different places. 

I was excited to head to Harajuku aka 'Funky Town' on the green (Chidoya) Line to Meiji-Jingumaaae for 'Harajuku' C03. Exit at 3 or 1. This place is just amazing! It's like one street full of people, colourful lights and independent boutiques. You see some of the craziest styles put together, the coolest shops and the brightest things to buy. Though I didn't buy anything. Different couloir socks, blue hair, contact lenses, Disney looks, massive clothing, gothic looks, school girl image and so much more! The shops are cheap for the locals but expensive for foreigners. If you holiday in Japan with intention to shop and go all out; have atleast a grand on you. I'm not kidding - you could probably have enough to visit an Island just outside though (like Okinawa). For me, next time. I walked around trying to sneakily take pictures of the weirdest dress sense but I failed and gave up. 

Back to the metro, I changed for the Brown (fukutoshin) line to Shibuya which was only one stop away (but a long walk to the transfer, like 300m - see what they did there) Exit at 8 for the great Shibuya Crossing which was too much fun! So many people crossing from different sides, I looked up all around me to finally believe I was in Japan! Lights from billboards and video screens with cute girl adverts. All adverts consist of a very white female looking cute with some face wash all smiley. I don't know what to think of it but it's not real. It was like Times Square but with a lot of corners and more intense. I visited Hyakkendana street just further up the road but it's full of food so unless you want to eat, good for you. 

The Japanese don't mind me here at all!!!! I'm just like any other tourist (although there are barely any) and no one stares at me, no one sees me as mysterious, no one cares! Amazing. I could do anything and not get attention! 

I went to Shinjuku-Sanchrome via the brown (Fukutoshin) line (you can get there by the red, Marunouchi line too) and I was getting tired. Exit A5 then turn right and right again for Shinjuku Central. Shinjuku station is big for commuters and is actually the second largest in the world. So take the wrong exit, it can be daunting being so far away from your destination. The sun has already settled and my feet were worn. I came here for the free view up the Metro Government Building of the city but it was dark so the view was quite poor - well not poor but just brightly lit buildings. I didn't mind so I strolled the area and had seen a little too many food places. The Japanese are never out of options. Shinjuku was filmed in 'Lost in Translation' (I haven't actually seen this movie). There are tiny nightspots, blinding lights and too many colours screamed each road and my eyes were getting tired so I moved on.

For the evening and the last stop, I went to Roppongi on the Grey (hibiya) Line. People have said it is avoided by travellers but I wanted to see it for myself. The place is full of Chinese prostitutes, horny foreigners, Russian strippers, needy women, large Nigerian bouncers and hungry men. Let me explain, 20 years ago you wouldn't be able to do anything in this city but things have changed. I went to the Roppongi Crossing to be in the middl then I walked to Roppongi Hills which gives you great views of Tokyo but it was closed. 

Roppingi has a red lights district similar to Amsterdam's own around Tokyo Midtown. You know what, if I do see black people they are usually men and Nigerian. I started to think maybe the locals here think I am some sort of player from Africa. I don't know. Walking towards Tokyo Midtown west I had started to see business men coming out of taxis and ladies in short skirts. I stopped myself before I went any further. I felt underdressed and walking in the alleys was starting to feel uncomfortable. I wanted to enter the gardens but it was too dark so I opted out. Instead I put a close to my day. If you had wanted to stay, A972 Garden bar is said to be really nice.

I headed back to Asakusa to see drunk locals falling out of taxis and prepared a bag for my time in Kyoto! 

I made it to Japan!

Day 14/15

Anyone else getting in the crack of dawn and want to join me for a fortifying beverage of pure caffeine? 

My flight was at 6am leaving Bali and I didn't get to Japan until 10pm so please someone tell me this ain't silly. I got to the airport by 3am and boarded my flight. I had spent the whole of day 14 getting to Japan. 

Upon my arrival at Haneda Airport, Tokyo Ota City, immigration was ridiculously long. I spent 2 hours before I could exit the customs and find my way to my hostel. My tourist visa was stamped after the longest queue(there was a massive group of international boxers), bags collected (to find it half torn through security), custom declaration checked (filling in 2 forms), bags checked again (do I look dodgy though?) - procedure they say, and a million questions answered. 'What are you doing in Japan and why, where were you born?, do you have any guns (really guys, really), did you pack your bags yourself, how long are you staying in Japan, where are you going after'.

I missed the last train because of this! Thanks to the absolutely wonderful tourist information service, I booked the airport limousine bus (1860YEN under £10) for a 90minute drive to Asakusa (Asakusa view hotel). I didn't want to take the taxi (which is so expensive in Japan) as it would have costed me £40. Are you alright?

I arrived the bus stopat 2am but got expectedly lost on the way to the hostel. The streets were so empty and waste-of-electricity lights boomed in every shop. I walked under high roads and bridges, I walked passed restaurants and shops and found myself in the middle of what looked like China town with a lot of corners (I realised where I was the next day). Some people were walking around so I didn't feel so alone. It was late and dark but I wasn't concerned. I needed water so stopped at a convenience store and used this opportunity to ask for directions. Bad luck, the assistant spoke no word of English. Interestingly he helped me but in Japanese as if I understood him. He wasn't even trying to break it down in broken English or anything. He just purely spoke to me like i spoke the language so I watched his fingers and nodded then said thank you. Turned out I walked too far down so had to go backwards. I stopped at a traffic to read my non-translated map and asked a man beside me. He kindly used his phone to find the way and showed me. He too spoke no English but used the traffic lights on the map to guide me. Two traffic lights, right, one traffic light then second street left. He said this in Japanese but I got it with his gesturing. He was flickering his fingers to demonstrate the traffic lights and counted 2 then used his hands to show me right or left.  Complicated but I managed. I had noticed in some streets they had evacuation area poles with a lid on the ground. Don't know what to say to that but the Lord is with me.

Just before 3am I finally got to the hostel - thanks to the map (it's really just a 10minute walk). No staff was up to check me in but they left me a door code and my keys in an envelope. See you in the morning it says. Welcome to Japan Tianah. I was cold, tired and unfortunately hungry. But most importantly I had arrived safely so I was happy.

Understanding Bali

Many of the Balinese wear a flower (usually a frangipani) tucked behind their ears. This symbolises purity and is used for their prayers and daily offerings. 

The people of Bali are money grabbers so do be careful when spending (check your change) and changing your currency (change at hotel or experienced centres). I got scammed twice very easily at a 'currency exchange stall' along the streets in Jalan Legian. They count it in front of you, make you count it too making them look legit. So always know how much you are supposed to receive. Luckily, the second time I was scammed. I calculated it correctly and demanded the rest of my money. The first time I sadly lost £20. I shall consider it as charity. 

In most places there are flower pots made out of leaves with a smoking incest as a form of blessing and offering. When giving people money, they wave it around or tap it on this plant pot. 

There are no public transport in Bali but arranged shuttle buses, government taxis and motorbike taxis (most of my money went on this sadly). You can book tours from a number of tourist office but prices vary and you can haggle the cost! 

Restaurants use 'Free Wifi' as their attraction for people to eat there. Sad really. 

Dehydration is very likely on this island so making sure you are topping up your bottled water is important. This can avoid a lot of horrible problems! If so, it would pass in 3 days depending on how much rest you get and how well you can make yourself drink and eat. It is actually quite hard! 

Most people come from different islands in Indonesia to work in Bali which is a touristic area. I plan to head to the remote islands with my boyfriend next time as this is where I wanted to go in the first place. 

The traffic is quite poor and slow in Jalan Legian mainly and everywhere because of the narrow one-way streets that make it difficult to move around. But there are so many motorbikes and vans on the road which is only just about organised. 

Ladies wear socks here with their flip flops. I can never understand why. 

Everyone speaks pretty good English except the scammers (unless they pretend they don't understand you WHEN CLEARLY THEY DO). 

The most common questions are: where you from?, what is your name?, taxi?, transport?, where you stay?

You have to pay airport tax when you leave so make sure you have 200,000IDR on you on your way home! ridiculous. 

Vacay to the Islands, Lombok

Day 11 

I had fried rice and egg for breakfast today back at Kayun Downtown hostel. Strange but nice but strange, can't quite fault it. Apart from the fact that the egg yolk was runny, streaming down my vegetables.

In the morning, I headed to Pandangbai with a group of other backpackers who were all boys strangely. Australians so that meant they were extremely tall, gym built, far too tanned with golden brown or crispy blonde hair and a dragged accent. The organisation was identical to Thailand with the bus trips to the boat harbour. We were stuck on the bus for 3 hours so we all chatted away about what we do. I took away some valuable lessons and thoughts with me. 

 Pandangbai is a beach and the port for boats leaving to Gili Trawangan and other islands. The Gili Islands are an archipelago of three small islands; Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air. The harbour had so many workers and vendors who were just annoying as those back in the city. Some were children! I can imagine it being a help for their mothers though.

The boat felt like a submarine if that makes sense. I couldn't see the sea from where I was sitting but the distance trees and other boats. As we moved, the boat was extremely rocky in a soft way and I was already feeling seasick. There was a movie 'Parker' playing with ENGLISH SUBTITLES! My sister's husband Jason Statham was playing bad guy. I was so happy despite the speed of the boat but I was comfortable. The unnecessary air con blew away inside and I was seated to myself on two chairs. They were selling Bintang beer but not water for 25IDR. 

We arrived close to 4pm.

I walked the whole island in 2.25 hours (it should take 1-2 hours but I was slow) and i checked in Gili Tralala Homestay before sunset. It costed £10 for two nights, again it doesn't get cheaper than that. Only a 5 minute walk to the main strip but in a quiet village with other locals and a few tourists. I liked this. The island has no cars or no noisy motorbikes whatsoever. There are bikes and rental bikes and horse carts as taxis. I had asked whether the horses are fixed a break and my answer was there there are day and night shifts horses. It was a little like Koh Phi Phi but wider and less hippy. Also less tattoo parlours actually. Koh Phi Phi has so many!?

I had noticed coloured ribbons around pigeons ankles which got me concerned as I saw the same types of ribbons around chickens. 

There are a lot of turtle conservations here advertising safety for them. I had learnt a bit about them before moving on from one turtle shack. There are 7 species of sea turtles;

Hawksbill

Leatherback

Loggerhead 

Green

Olive Ridley 

Kemps Ridley 

Flat Back

They eat jellyfish, seaweed and crabs and in Indonesia they have the largest diversity. Sadly they become extinct with poaching, ocean pollution and accidental catch. You'd donate 200,000IDR

People were seen picking up litter on the beach but I was assured that it was for some kind of compensation or reward. Later on I had seen a centre where a lady was weighing each litter bag. I didn't stay on for what happened next so I never got to know. 

I had planned to buy a boat ticket for the next day going to Gili Meno and Gili Air at the harbour. You can buy one at the travel agency but you will pay more because of commission so beware of that or remember to negotiate. Turned out I can get one in the morning right before it leaves. I watched a man gut two fishes by the sea which was quite disturbing but I still watched. He cut the fish in half then ripped out everything inside and threw it to the sea. He was a nice man though, spoke some great English.

I trusted street food again so I opted for dinner at the night market. I sure fried noodles with chicken for 15,000IDR; this is less than £1.50. Beer is pricey here although it's cheap for us but when the alcohol is more than food, I chose not to purchase any. I sat at as checked table beside many other food vendors selling meals for so cheap. 

While eating I watched a couple awkwardly sit in silent.

Bumped into the guys I had met previously in Kuta while I was eating so they joined me to eat too. We all ate chatted away talking about the most random things such as politics, travel info, eating humans (don't ask), illegal substances and their lives. One guy was from Switzerland travelling for 6 months, one from Chicago in Bali for a month holiday and a Norwegian also travelling for 6 months, maybe more. 

We sat for a while before heading to different bars early in the night. They drank Bintang one after the after while I felt needless have any at the time. Because why?

We continued to another bar where they had better music and stayed there for two beers again. We then went to Juggle juggle which is a Pre-Game bar where you'd play a BeerPong tournament. We joined and it was actually really enjoyable. It's basically aiming a ball in the cups partly filled with beer and if the opposite player gets it in yours, you drink it. It's a trashy game but popular at parties. We did three games and I no longer wanted to shoot down beers so we luckily moved to another bar after the other for some live music, electro disco, psychedelic and finally RnB! I definitely stayed although the DJ was trying to be a DJ by what they think being a DJ consists of. It was annoying hearing the scratches and the wiki-wiki-wow sketch every minutes but I was thrown back to the old skool.

 I had asked for a rum and coke but got whiskey instead unless it was rum that tasted like whiskey. It was less than £2 and the beers are priced the same. The night was okay and being with the guys meant that i didn't have to pay for all of my drinks even though I was more than happy to (I was only going to have two drinks anyway). I watched as they look for girls to talk to which was interesting. I tried to explain 'it's not everyday girl for guys' - if they had shown interest, okay. Don't insist, do NOT beg, don't go back if they've said no, if they don't follow don't stop, if they don't look twice (with an upward eye smile) don't bother. You have a lot of drunks and slow ones not knowing what they are going and some making a grab but you can kindly say no and take their hands off you. I found myself saying to the guys, leave her alone - she doesn't want you. Or to the girls that If they wanted a long-term relationship with a guy not from where they're from, don't bother. Girls don't do it, guys keep it to yourself. 

Clubs closes around 3am then there is nothing around. So bed it is for all of them. And some have to cycle to the other side of the island to get home. Luckily mine was just up the corner more up inside the island. Like in the middle. 

Day 12

I was up first thing and was out for the day to tour the other two islands. I managed to get a glass bottom boat to myself for £5 with a driver of course. We went towards Gili Meno and he showed me a shipwreck not far off the island. 

We stopped in Gili Meno and I was there for 2 hours then we went off to Gili Air. 

Through the glass, I had seen humongous turtles, coral reef and around the other side the fish garden which was so beautiful! I had done snorkeling already in Thailand so I didn't feel like doing it again to be honest. It's not so much fun unless you dive (which I will never do). I don't plan to ever dive no. Just because.

Gili Air is definitely more beautiful than the other two islands and a hell of a lot smaller. I had spent under an hour walking around the whole island and had some local lunch by the village. The people here all look the same really. You could tell me the man I had met to take me somewhere and another man would come and I wouldn't know. Seriously. Most of the men like their hair long and some have Rasta hair and high five me wherever I go. But I'm not Jamaican. It's funny because they ask me where I'm from and I say England or London. They immediately say you from Manchester right? In London? Or Newcastle. I remind them constantly that Manchester is more North of England but they never understand. They name all the English players they know and say they've met the queen. 

I came back to Gili Trawangan and bumped into the same guys again and we all went to the Paradise Sunset bar which is South of the beach/island (from the harbour). Clearly in the name, the bar is famous for their serene sunset views and settings. It's quite a walk round but it's not far like crazy far. It was still warm enough to swim in the sea (when I mean swim I mean sit on the seabed and enjoy the sun and cool water). There's another one further down but that's just too far. The seabed had squids and starfishes chilling by the rocks. White crabs were chasing each other in the sands so it's always a scare whenever you see them (they look like sand balls with dark eyes). We ordered dinner right before the sunset and enjoyed. I had calamari and complimentary fries with salsa and hot sauce. It was superb and I felt so relaxed. The North beach is more vacant with less boats and beautifully made huts. I planned to head there the next day before my boat to Bali. 

In the evening, I enjoyed some live music at Sama Sama (reggae) bar and the music were from Bruno Mars, Robbie Williams and all those soppy 'I love you so why you leaving me baby' songs. 

Interesting because the island has a large mosque right in the middle of the party spots. In the evening, men are seen praying and children are in sarongs attending services. I had thought perhaps the workers just serve and earn their living wages but most are seen drinking too. They have daily chants on speakers and during Ramadan atleast the island is kind of shut down with no drinking and loud music. Mushroom is very popular on this island and very easy to get. You'd have men going around chilled people just chatting on cushions in bars asking them whether they'd like some mush'. Some ask for esasty and some weed. I didn't see or hear any crazy stories about one taking it on the island but it's quite dangerous asking for the price or even considering it. As most can be undercovers. Although they are unlikely to be (Thailand very likely) they are considered cheap but best to avoid.

Day 13 

I spent my morning on the beach behaving like I was seriously on vacation. It felt good for a while until I got bored of sunbathing and my book. I had bought tonic water at the bar but the tax was ridiculous and ended up spending any more than I would have in the shop. So completely avoid restaurants with tax service. Some actually say tax free so there are options. 

I decided to walk around the island again but along to beach to find some spots. There were some beautiful villas (that I really want to buy in the future) and hotels with pools. Bungalows, spas and souvenir shops sparse along the strip of the island. 

I found some cool spots to stay on before moving on with headphones in my ears. I had to hurry though as the last boat back to Bali was nearing. Sandy feet and wet shoulders, my time by the beaches was nearly over. In a day time I will be back in the city again!

There's not so much you can do on the island apart from the obvious water sports, walking, cycling, tours to other islands or to Lombok, eating and drinking(there are so many options). 

The boat transport was cheap actually. I paid about £40 for boat to the island and back to Bali plus a shuttle bus to the harbour (2hours North Bali) and back too. If you have luggage when boarding a boat, do be last to put it on so you'll be the first to receive yours at your destination. Otherwise wait a while and watch the others grab theirs and rush off to their location. John Wick' the film played this time in the boat but I fell asleep in the cold. I made back to Kuta in the evening and prepared for my long ass flight to Japan!! Next stop!