Half day Japan | Half day South Korea

Day 21

So today was the day i was leaving for Korea!!


I slept light as I didn't want to miss my alarm to head to the airport. I woke up in my tunnel of a cute capsule which I really enjoyed! It was contained but not too tight or claustrophobic. 

Having a shower on the top floor (with great views) in front of naked women like 3 times my age was one of the craziest experience I've ever had. It was 6am so I thought I'd be alone. 

Dragging my bags, i took the sky access line  train to Narita Airport Terminal 2 via Oshiage on the Asakusa line then changed at Takasago for the Sky Access Express Line. It took an hour to get there so I slept on my hand luggage hoping no one would bother me. I kept looking for where i was so i wouldn't miss my stop and this bothered me.  

I love love love watching the Arrivals Terminal and seeing people reunited with their love ones. It made me excited to see mine. I sat and watched until it was time to check in my flight for South Korea at the departures. I was flying with Eastar jet which is like the Asian Ryanair. But it was a short flight and it got me from A to B so whose complaining?

My flight was at 11.50am and only three hours to Seoul. So as soon as I got on the plane, I fell asleep and literally as soon as I woke up, we were landing. Quickly filled in the immigration and custom cards (i was so curious whether i should note down the amount of Oreo Kitkat chocolate i had in my bag - i left it anyway and managed to smuggle a million of them through).

I was staying at Hongik University area which is obviously a student district so perfect for me and too amazing. I walked passed vintage shops and clothing goodies before reaching my hostel and planned to shop until night time (I was actually planning to sleep). 

Along the buzzing streets, there are many street performers doing magic tricks, dancing and spinning on the gum-less ground and singing in Korean which sounds like One Direction. It's sad because as soon as the performer finishes, the crowd is less and people walk away avoiding to give change money. To be honest, i kind of do this aswell unless the person is like super amazing. 

Two Londoners were also staying where I was so it was nice to get some familiarity although I was so close to going home. 

Apparently there was a MERS breakout in Korea and everyone i had seen (especially in the subway and arrival zone) were wearing a mask almost covering their whole face. I bought one for about 2 pounds but they're not easy to breath in really. I didn't want to google the breakout but eventually i did when i saw it in the news of 9 people dead and 2800 quarantined. MERS stands for Middle East Respiratory Syndrome and is an illness caused by a coronavirus. The symptoms are fever, hyperthermia, coughs and shortage of breath. You can prevent this illness by wearing a mask, washing your hands, avoiding big crowds and obviously covering your mouth when sneezing etc.

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Korea has a population of 50 million people and it actually highly advanced as expected. They have sold more internationally branded cars than the US and their public transport provide smart cards you can use in all public transport and convenience stores. Almost like the touch'n'go credit card in the UK - is that not what they're called? The Seoul Metro Subway is one of the most heavily used subway systems in the world with more than eight million daily trips. It is also one of the biggest subway stations worldwide, running 179.4 miles in length.
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So what about the Korean divide? 
The 1935 Allied victory in WW2 which ended Japan's empire of 35 years colonial rule in Korea led to the divide of South and North Korea. They were unified during the Joseon Dynasty between the the late 1300s and early 1900s. Then from 1910 for 35 years, Korea was a Japanese Colony. Soon after South Korea declared itself a nation in 1948.

To put it short and from what i understand, during the war, the Americans decided to split Korea in half along the 38th parallel of latitude. This was to ensure that Seoul would be within the American section from America's guidelines for administering Japan post-war. So those in the South surrendered to the Americans and those in the North, the Japanese forces surrendered to the Soviet Union.

So the soviets were the ones who appointed Kim II-sung (he who served during the war as a major in the Soviet Red Army) as the new leader of their occupation zone. He then began to go his own way, push away the opposite party (the capitalists) and demanded statues of his image around North Korea branding himself as a great leader.
A few years after, he attempted to unify Korea under communist rule and instructed an invasion (Korean war) of the South which lasted three years. Killing more than 3 million Koreans yet the countries are still divided along the 38th parallel and they remain separated by a 2.5 mile wide demilitarized zone (DMZ). The DMZ which remains the most tense border in the world.

In more than 60 years and still the divide remains with no known plans to unite. No tourists have been allowed to enter the North but recently they have allowed organised tours (which is a little silly as you only see what they show you) and strictly group tours into the country for a number of days. I had arranged a DMZ tour the next few days to see this border and attempt to question those in the military but it was sadly cancelled due to the MERS breakout and i was due to leave before they would allow it again.

Travelling tips' Part 2

Further tips on backpacking 

Do pack light when jumping different countries, different airlines have different baggage weight restrictions. 

Avoid large toiletries and towels - most hotels/hostels provide one (just bring a hand towel if going somewhere remote).

Avoid going shopping before a backpacking trip. Bring what you have and buy what you can out there as markets are cheap. Esp if you need something.

For the cold and wet, one raincoat and a jumper is enough for a long trip.

Let your bank know you are travelling (when and where) so your card is allowed to be used abroad otherwise suffer a financial block and an expensive phone call to the bank customer service line. 

Always have a snack in your bag wherever you intend to go. Obviously not chocolate on a hot day though. 

Save money by walking to places or find out if the city has a free shuttle bus going around.

Iplayer is great for downloading programmes and films and watching them without wifi. This is good for long journeys and flights with no entertainment. Download the Iplayer app and download selected programmes (up to 12) and watch abroad! 

Avoid expensive food. You don't need it that much. 

Do bring a padlock or two for security, lockers and luggage storage. Some hostels may provide a key to lockers as deposit. 

Do learn the basics of the language in the country you are visiting such as thank you, hello, how much. If not, be as expressive as you can. 

Do note last trains and bus times in cities as getting a taxi may be expensive or consider a car-share. 

Bring vitamin capsules or non-diluted squash for your water bottles as this can bring flavour to your drink aswell as hydrate you in a healthy way.  

Carry extra cash in every day trips and put it somewhere hidden or safe. This could be used for emergencies or if you see something you really like!

Avoid too much fizzy drinks (I had so much in China, I got ill and unfit with a dodgy tummy).

Don't bring countless underwears as there are laundry service in every place. Even in the village. 

Observing Japan!

Observing Japan 

Japan is a very clean country. Hardly any litter are found on the streets (this is interesting because there are hardly any bins). 

People are allowed to read magazines and books in stores how ever long they want. You'd find them standing by the rack reading for hours. I didn't understand the point of selling them then. 

Most of the girls like their hair (shoulder) short. Maybe it's just the style of the season. 

When you give money they give you a tray to put it in.

Below the knee skirts are popular with the young girls. 

Some hostels offer free accommodation if you stay up to 28 days in Japan to clean the hostel 3 hours each day.

Whenever I see people sneeze, they never cover their mouth!!!!!! they don't even try (One of the reasons why I wear a mask).

The freedom to dress how you please is very clear is Tokyo.

Everyone has OCD. One little fluff on their trousers, they do everything to get it off. 

Many of the Japanese girls like to make sad face poses. I can't understand why but then that's like you asking me why people do fishlips poses. I don't know. 

When group of (business men & women) people say their goodbyes and depart separate ways, they spend at least 10minutes bowing at each other smiling and saying the same word (the sort of bow you do at an end of a show but times by 10)

They also have the Big Issue in Japan. People are seen trying to sell them on the streets (seen in Osaka).

A lot of the out-of-school boys like to dry gel their hair. A lot of them 

Tramps are rare but I've 3 severe cases. One was naked bottom down next to the road and no one took notice. (Interesting as in Tokyo, everyone is pretty much rich so it must be difficult being poor in the city)

None of the men have beards. I haven't seen one with beards (as in they shave it all the time). 

You have to be 20+ to drink alcohol. 

When you ask a Japanese girl a question, her eyes widens as she concentrates and their voices are high &!they like to say ooo, aah, mm. 

Barely anyone eats in public! I'm always seen eating in the streets, trains and buses. I've seen no one do the same (I was scared it wasn't allowed but no one told me off so.)

You enter at the rear of the buses and exit and pay at the front of the bus. 

Japan's toilet tissue is single rolled as in its a single sheet. Can you imagine this!? Do you know how many times I roll it out on my hands to wipe when using the loo. It's so thin! 

I'm beginning to think crossing the road at pedestrian red light in Japan is illegal.

There are pigeons in Japan. There's none in China. 

Groups of friends walk around like they're a music band co-ordinating with each other and just looking cool. 

False eye lashes are very popular here. 

With couples, the girls like to play with their partner's hands a lot or his belonging. I see this constantly. I've never seen one kiss though.

There's hardly any bins here so you're forced to basically carry your rubbish until you find one. 

People nod a lot. 

The Japanese love their gaming - there are arcades everywhere.

Crossing your legs in as business meeting is considered rude. Can you imagine?! 

June is like the worst month to go to Japan. I missed the cherry blossom season by a week. It appears from April to May but that's when Japan is busy and a pain. 

Mexicans restaurants are really popular here for some reason.

Smoking is interestingly prohibited in the streets. There are signs of its ban on the ground and on lampposts. No one I had seen disobeyed. Later on the day I had noticed people smoking all in one area. It was a smoking zone and they are usually just outside the train station. 

It's bad form to fill your own glass with beer?! 

There are taxis-on-foot beside touristic attractions by men who run and carry you sitting on a carriage. They are so buff and extremely fit. Their physique is beautiful and they have long hair. you'd think the same too.

Japan has the largest number of vending machines in the world so I was so not surprised to constantly see vending machines in literally every corner. There are over 5.5 million.

It's not good sticking your chopsticks upright in a bowl of rice. 

With the excitement of Japan's Olympics in 2020, there have been disaster preparations of increasing the city's resilience through the regeneration of dense neighbourhood with wooden houses, making structure earthquake resistance, building tsunami and rain countermeasures and securing road networks. The stadium design that looks like a turtle is set to begin in October. Foreign Language assistance will be improved as its quite poor here. 

Women love their heels!!! Not kitten ones, like mega high ones.

Everyone loves to dye their hair, even the older people (ladies). Blue, purple and grey are the popular colours. Brown is the most common in the whole population (you could actually mistake some for a Caucasian). 

The service here is military. You are treated with great respect and practically considered as royalty. They salute you and half-bow. 

Prior to 1868, Tokyo was known as Edo.

There's a lady only carriage in trains and express buses in Japan too. But only before 9.30am. After then, everyone can board the carriage.

Japan is safe mainly because the locals are 90% more likely to be richer than you so you are unlikely to be robbed. I felt safe. 

When the bus stops at the bus stop or the traffic, the driver switches off the engine. 

There are school kids roaming around every moment of the day. You get no break from them unlike in London on a weekday from 9-3pm, it's schoolkids free. 

Japanese is like really hard to learn. I can't even say hello.'

Last day in Japan'

Day 19

I woke up early to check in my next stay which was a capsule hotel by Sumida River (Close to the subway for Narita Airport, Japan). I was running out of money so I had to stick to a strict financial plan for the day and morning. On my way to the hostel, I was fidgeting with my phone in the middle of the street and a man stopped to ask if I needed any help! This is very kind you know. I said no thank you and continued walking. In London, people would be hissing at you for stopping in the middle of the street! 

I put my luggage in a coin locker at the hostel (as check in is not until 3pm) for 400Y which is a lot of money according to my budget. I should have left it at the other hostel until I came back to pick it up but I didn't do that so I was annoyed. The hostel speaks little English so it was time consuming getting just the tiniest information from them. I didn't mind as I was only there one night. I needed a bed, that's all. 

I got on the Ginza (orange) line to Shinjuku changing at Asakasa Mitsuke on the Marunouchu (red) line to catch the 10.40am Highway bus from for Kawaguchiko to stroll Mt Fuji! The one way ticket costed 240Y so I planned to avoid buying a ticket on the way back to save what I didn't have. The train barriers are usually open but it's the guard beside it I feared for. I planned to bum someone through and try not to get caught. Don't do this by the way, I'm incredibly skilled at this swift move in the most appropriate way. 

I left at the west exit of the station and found the bus departure by the technology headquarters. Don't buy tech stuff from Japan unless you're happy with using foreign adapters and keyboards etc. I bought my ticket from the office which I had reserved online for 1750Y each way and got led to gate 26. My seat was 05D by the window next to a bulky man who kept coughing. I like my space a lot so having to sit thigh to thigh with someone was extremely uncomfortable. I prepared for the journey anyway with a blanket I carry around with me, laid back with my earphones in and slept straight away. Before this I had to make sure where I was going was the last stop. 

I arrived at Kawaguchiko station after 12 and hoped to go up Mount Fuji but the clouds were being greedy so sadly I couldn't. I could still see it though but it could have been any other mountain because of the hovering at the top. I got hold of a map of Kawaguchiko which showed the two big lakes in the village. There were sightseeing buses but it didn't fit my budget so I decided to hike it. Firstly I walked to Lake Kawaguchiko passing Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, Fuji Musuem, Yagisaki park, Fuji Omuro Sengen Shrine, a camping village then took the walk trial all the way round the lake towards Lake Saiko. This took me 4 hours. The surroundings of the lake is stunning and I dream to retire by the mountains. I walked passed museums, herbal gardens, leisure parks and watched families do fishing, play volleyball and have picnics. It was a calm day with spots of clouds covering the pure blue sky and the sun would shine when it could so it wasn't hot. This was great for my walk. 

I was equipped with water and cream bread so I didn't have to suffer hunger and thirst in the middle of no where. 

However as I was walking I started to sneeze and my eyes began to itch. I sensed it was hayfever so I panicked away from the plants and onto the road. I sneezed every step and my eyes were sore pink. I walked by the road for a moment and thought of what my mother would say if she had seen me. I got a little nervous then walked back down to the lake side and suffered the hayfever the safe way. People live by the lakes which reminded me of the one in Geneva except it wasn't so blue. To wake up to the view I was seeing must be so soothing in rain, snow and heatwave. 

I had stopped to watch a wake boarding activity go on and hoped to see one fly off from the water surface. You wear some sort of shoe board with a pipe that shoots you up pressing down on the water. One spent too long in the water (I didn't really know what was going on) before she flew up so I just carried on my walk. I wouldn't do it as it doesn't appeal to me. I was following the map so I wasn't aware of the routes I had to take (or how long it would take me). I was going uphill, through tunnels, through the forest, downhill by the cliff road, on the bike trail and on the walk trail. 

I had finally reached Lake Saiko which is a smaller lake further away East from Lake Kawaguchiko.  I believed to have walked about 20miles but I wasn't tired as I could have walked further more but it would just be another vast lake. 

I had booked a scheduled bus back to Tokyo so I couldn't walk back. I had to get a bus, the sightseeing bus I didn't have a ticket for. I waited at a green bus stop stand hoping to look like I've been hopping on and off the bus (considering how remote I was). Luckily when one came, I waved and the driver welcomed me in. I sat down anxiously but after 10minutes, I relaxed and stayed on until we got back to the station for my bus. Although when we got back to the station, the driver was checking tickets and I was pooing myself. I thinking of every excuse while waiting in the queue and started to panic!! It got to my turn (I was last) and I tried to walk off but he said 'ticket please' so pretended to look for my ticket. I took out everything in my bag and shook my books and leaflets. I waited until he said 'its okay, never mind' (it took him forever to say this so I was panicking and in my head I was telling him to hurry up). He finally did and I got off the bus apologising. I didn't change face until he was no longer seen. Oh gosh, don't risk this. 

I was still blowing out my nose and legs started to reveal pain. Not pain pain but I-have-been-walking-for-so-long-pain. I waited at the station for bus heading back the same way to Tokyo, Shinjuku. I arrived after sunset and it started to rain shortly before my stop was due. 

I managed to get the subway back to Asakusa ticketless (it was either ticket or dinner). 

In the evening, I had spent my last night packing for the low fare plane to Seoul, South Korea! The baggage allowance was 15kg so I had to ensure the weight and I'm leaving first thing in the morning. A capsule hotel is usually for people who can't get home at night so sleep in a capsule and return home in the morning or go straight back to work. 

I thought to visit the public bath on the 9th floor for women only before I went to bed. I couldn't believe how naked the ladies were in the steamy room. There are six stools and shower heads next and opposition each other. The ladies were butt naked, like hairy vagina and boobies. nah

Kyoto to Tokyo

Day 18

I got up early for the rest of Kyoto following my plan. Well actually I got up when I could because when my alarm rang, i physically couldn't get out of bed. By 9am, I was able to fall off. 

The forecast was 60% rain but I still wore my shorts and refused an umbrella. The sky is white and it's windy.

Kyoto is pretty much where most of the Japanese history occurred. One of the world's most culturally rich cities, I'm proud to say it ranks with Paris, London (yes London) and Rome as a city that everyone should see in their lifetime (I am yet to visit Rome!!! - this is a massive hint to my boyfriend by the way. I'm kidding, or am I?). Photogenic Kyoto lies in a hidden view so it takes some exploring to discover the beautiful sights in the city. Stepping out of Kyoto Station, you immediately think it's another concrete jungle. So this was what I had aimed to do. Luckily the map was very easy to navigate. In fact it's very easy to navigate in Japan. 

I bought a city bus pass from my hostel reception for 500Y (which is about £2.50), got hold of the city map (which was huge) and said my goodbyes. A single journey on a bus is 230Y so it made sense to buy the pass. You can't avoid it as you enter at the rear of the bus then pay and exit at the front of the bus beside the driver.

My first stop was Nishiki food market which has local (and international) shops around. I took bus 4 round the corner on Kawaramachi dori on the left hand side of the road and reached Downtown Kyoto in 10minutes. I got off at Shijo Kawaramachi. Filled with great cheap vintage finds (so for me!), eateries and souvenirs so I was happily strolling through the streets and shopping tunnel shop by shop. I walked through the Nishiki food market one block North of shijo-dori and watched sellers chop up ingredients and cook food in front of you. Food I have never seen or tasted. It smells like fish for a while until you get to the green tea section of everything made of green tea (which is huge in Japan).

I got to Shijo Horikawa bus stop from walking straight down (and turning left to the main road) and caught the 203 to Ginkakujo-michi bus stop for the Ginkaki-ji temple in North Higashiyama. It's quite a walk uphill from the bus stop but there are many stalls selling mixed ice creams (literally half vanilla and half green tea in a swirl) in a cone or Japanese snacks. 

 Ginkaku-ji is a premier sight in the city translated as Silver Pavilion (it's not silver though). In 1482, Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa had constructed a villa here as an escape from the chaos of the civil war. I genuinely cannot imagine how people lived during the wars of the world. It fascinates me when meeting a survival or a child of war times. Anyway, after his death, it was converted into a temple. I'm not sure why and why he was so significant but the build of the home was impressive. Entrance fee is 500Y and the walk around is serene despite the light rain! The stoned steps uphill gives you an observatory view of Kyoto and the temple. The garden is well looked after with pink floral details emerging from the ground. 

Walking back downhill, by the time i reached the bottom i was soaked. I stopped by Central Kyoto for Kyoto Imperial park and Palace but it was raining heavily at the time so I didn't stay long (bare in mind I was holding my check out bag and I was wet). The park has a lot of history I won't bore you into but it is high priority among Kyoto's wealth of sights. You see the villas, the gardens and important sections around and within the area. It should take you an hour to go all around on a tour. 

I didn't. I took bus 102 straight to the kinkaku-ji michi stop for Kinkaku-ji temple. It took about 15minutes northwest of Kyoto. Kyoto's Golden Pavilion which floats over a pond was even more of a beautiful sight even though the surrounding was more plain. Built as a retirement villa for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. Apparently it looks better in the snow but it wasn't snowing. It was raining so the temple looked so bright and pretty (basic vocabs but the best I could do).

It's a short stroll around the park and there are many shops selling wishful products and traditional souvenirs at the end of the pathway. 

From the exit, I walked to three different bus stops to find bus 59 going to Arashiyama. It took me 40minutes to find the right one going the right way! When I was finally on, it took 20minutes to reach a bus station for a transfer for bus 11. I changed and stopped at Arashiyama Tenryu bus stop for a visit to the Arashiyama bamboo grove which begins outside the North gate of Tenryu-ji temple. Tenryu-ji temple is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with beautiful gardens, mirror ponds and colourful flowers. Both visits are ranked as one of the must-do experiences in Japan. 

This was my last stop as my list was complete and it was perfect timing as I grew tired. I took bus 28 to Kyoto Station which took a long half an hour. Luckily there was no air-con as I was cold and wet. I watched the city as I was leaving and while my nose were runny. I got to the station to change into some dry clothes and attempted to find the platform for the Shinkansen train to Tokyo! Every one says it's a big deal but to be honest it's like the Virgin trains but wider. It doesn't feel fast at all. We in London have trolley service in long distance trains so there was no difference to here. The seats are far apart and they have smoking cabins. Most trains in Asia have smoking cabins actually. If you have an unreserved ticket (you're very likely to find a seat), sit in carriage 1 and it's has the most available seats.

 The ticket man came and I casually looked for my ticket in my purse but it wasn't there. This is annoying because then it seemed like I was making an excuse. I used the ticket to come through two barriers so I definitely had one. The man was smiling and nodding then after 5 minutes he said he would come back. He did after 5 minutes and I was still looking! I took out everything from my bags ad pockets and he kneeled down to watch. He looked under the chair and around the floor as if I lost my earring! I kept looking then I finally found it between my clothes (I seriously don't know how it got there). He nodded enthusiastically and stamped my ticket. Before leaving each carriage, a worker on the train turns around to bow, smiles then continues the way they were going in the first place. aw! 

The Japanese are so kind and friendly, always smiling and keen to help. I have not seen an angry face since I got here. They like to laugh quickly while their shoulders bounce. I found this too cute. 

I arrived Tokyo after 2.5 hours and slowly got off the train. Cleaners immediately entered the train to switch the chairs around (facing the next direction), replace the White paper heads (on the top of the chairs), clear the rubbish and mop the floor. They had 9 minutes! I have never seen anyone work so fast!

I took a look at Tokyo station from the outside and it looked so medieval and modern at the same time! I took a stop to Tateishi on the private railway for a discovery of the real Tokyo; the real Japan. It was dark so I couldn't see so much but I had seen the pure life of the Tokyoites. Japanese bars were full of people standing and food were being fried on the street. 

I called it a day and took the one way subway to Asakusa for 200Y on the Orange (Ginza) line and walked to my hostel in the continuous rain!

I played Mario Kart on the Nintendo Super Famicom (which is extremely old!) while making myself dinner in the kitchen. I bought some noodles, egg and tomato sauce which sounds disgusting but is actually really nice. The supermario game was so old I couldn't believe how well it played when I tried to play. Each race is 5 laps (which is long as today it's only 3) and the levels are so easy! The gold coins are flat on the ground and the control pad is tiny! Or maybe I just have big hands. 

I have one more day in Japan so I planned to head to Mount Fuji tomorrow first thing! Bed now I think.

12 hours in Osaka

Day 17

I woke up to someone's feet in my face from the top bunk and in dismay, I turned away to continue sleeping but couldn't. It was time to get up.

I jotted down my places of interest in Osaka during breakfast. And left before noon. I stopped by at Higashi Honganji temple which is known as Shinshu Honbyo. One of the largest Buddhist denominations in Japan and the hall is one of the largest wooden constructions in the world (rebuilt in 1895 after a fire destroyed some parts). It teaches Shinran which is a path to self-awakening. The temple is now the headquarters of the Ontani Branch of Jodo Shin-shu. I won't go on because I didn't stay long.

I walked to the under-path to the JR. Line and you know how in London, people cross the road at the sight of no cars and mainly just to avoid waiting for the walk sign (because they feel safe enough to cross). In Japan, even when there are no cars in sight, no body crosses! Or when the traffic light is red, the cars have stopped but only the walk sign hasn't turned green but yet still nobody crosses. Not until it's green (despite the red lights!). I crossed one (on a small road) and people looked at me as if I murdered a cat. I didn't do it again but waiting to cross is boring. Especially when there are no cars!! 

I took the JR Line to Osaka from Kyoto central Station following the sign that said 'For Osaka'. I was going up platform 5 then people started running so I did too. I jumped on the train then it left but I was unaware if it was going to Osaka so I waited to see. It takes 28minutes to get to Osaka so I timed the journey. If i was 30minutes in, I'm on the wrong train. The Japanese don't joke about their times. I went the second fastest way to Osaka by JR Shinkaisoku train which is 540Y each way. The Shinkansen train is 2730Y each way and only 15minutes faster. I think I can survive waiting an extra 15 and saving money for the next two days, jheeze. I didn't go through the budget option to get to Kyoto though as I didn't have time to waste. Although you could catch the night express bus which takes 7-8 hours from Tokyo to Kyoto/Osaka and is perhaps 3000-5000Y less. I contemplated whether I should have taken the bus though. If you had planned your trip before coming to Japan, you could buy a Japan Rail Pass in the UK but before coming to Japan (tourists cannot purchase this in Japan-sucks I know)! It's cheaper as a round trip but I didn't know what I was going to do so unfortunately I missed out on a great cheaper opportunity. Do bare this in mind when planning your trip to Japan. 

I arrived exactly after 28minutes and was glad to have been on the correct train. I followed the crowd to the exit and immediately got hold of a map. I had 12hours. 

Osaka has a population of 19million and appears to be overshadowed by Tokyo. Economically, Osaka is actually the 7th largest city in the world after Paris. In the working heart of Kansai, Osaka is famous for the gruff manners of citizens and eating. I went to Osaka to experience a modern Japanese city (it's also a port city) as Tokyo is extremely urban. 

I went straight to Umeda Sky Building through the Grand Front Osaka shopping mall and crossed the road to get to an under-path. Turn right and cross the road and again on your left and you will see the under-path entrance (Umeda Sky building is right on the other side). It's close to the central exit of Osaka city station so you can't get lost. 

People in business attires walked around among school children in bucket hats, collar tags and lunch boxes. Site F is the FunFun Plaza which provided the observatory viewing so head up to floor 3 via the escalators. This is where I got the lift to go further up. I joined the lift with an American and he kept making me laugh with how nervous he was going up the lift to the 35th Floor. We then had to go up a narrow escalator surrounded by guarded windows. The American had his eyes closed the whole way while I kept saying it was okay and the sight was beautiful! This leads to the observatory deck and ticket office for the floating garden. I didn't feel the need to go up there as the pictures on that floor showed me enough and what I had seen was more than enough. Admission is 800Y for adults (no student prices). Luckily it was a nice day as I got to see the city from up top and work out what was where. 

The building is 173m high and fitted with great safety measures which is earthquake-proof and protected from any form of disaster. The floating garden at the top is surrounded by mirror windows that cover the building. It beautifully reflects the sky on surface and it so appears as if the garden is floating in the blue. The 'mirrors' make it look like one building rather than two!

Calculating the time I had, I went back the same way and headed to the nearest subway through the Grand Front Osaka again. I walked to Hep Five building where the big red Ferris wheel was. It's completely red to match the shopping mall interior plan; or was the interior plan supposed to match the Ferris Wheel? It costs about 700Y to go up but have you been on the London eye? No? Exactly so. 

(If you have then good for you, I've been to the one in Belfast and it was slow)

My all day subway ticket was 800Y so my first stop was Shinsaibashi station for America-mura, Sankaku Park. 200Y more expensive than Tokyo, I was confused. The place is a drag of a shopping strip with many arcade rooms, imported American products. bright colours and unnecessary billboards so people say it's the place to be. You will find clothes on sale, lingerie, Indian imported fashion clothing, Japanese Surperdrugs, restaurants and more clothing shops. Men are seen drinking beer at all times of the day and I had thought it was what Japan had in common with England. Oi oooooi'

I walked all the way up to Hommachi stop in time for the subway. I took it again on the Midosuji Line to Namba for Dotombori. Identical to where I have just been but better at night time(I was there during the day so planned to return in the evening). Bigger and wider, people are visually seen crossing the road to enter into further shopping strips. It's hard to tell who is local or who is a tourist. You'd catch Japanese taking selfies where I do. If you like shopping then this is a place for you. 

My next stop was to Shinsekan which has been my favourite stop since I had been to Japan. So many different colours, designs, styles 

I walked through some sort of alley where all the Japanese style pubs are found. They are very small with low ceilings that could fit up to atleast 8 people at a time. I chose one bar and took an Asahi beer break at a standing pub which was weird. My beer costed me 350Y which meant I weren't allowed icecream or any snacks today. I stayed for a while talking to a man with a translation app on a phone. He was so enthusiastic to speak English despite not knowing the language or even the basics. I weren't enthusiastic to speak Japanese (I already know it's so hard) so I couldn't feel the same way. The bar tenders also used the app to ask me questions until an English speaking customer came in and did the job. He lived in Canada for a year to study being the benefactor to learning English. The bar tenders were 21 and 23 and really surprised to find that I was 20. Drinking in Japan is for 20 year olds and over. In some places you have to be 21, especially to buy alcohol in the shop. One of the bar tenders called Koko finished work at 4 which wasn't long ahead and offered to walk me to one of my places of interest on my list. Apparently it wasn't far. The man I had been speaking to initially offered to buy me another drink but I kindly said no so instead he paid for the drink I had finished. He was extremely kind and waved me goodbye many a time. So I had saved 350Y and planned to have ice cream soon! 

We walked to Abeno Harukas which was getting bigger and higher as we got closer. The building is stuck together with 3 counterparts of shopping malls, hotel rooms and offices like a step up ladder. It's higher than Umeda Sky building and more expensive(1500Y) to go up and see Osaka from up top. Ofcourse I didn't bother. The girl I was with, Koko, was so small, every step I took, she took three. Her voice was very high and squeaky and she was so tiny like i could fit her in my bag. We separated as we made our own way to different subways. We kept waving at each other and I didn't know when to stop. Eventually I turned around and the waving fanatic was over. 

I took the nearby subway to Tanimachi 4-chome changing on the chuo line to visit the Osaka castle at Morinomiya station. I got off a stop too early and ended up going the wrong way having to go back again to the subway. 

Do note the transfer between leaving the station, getting to your platform, entering the under path for the subway is just so long! Sometimes you're walking pass so many shops under ground, you'd think you're not going to your subway line. It's not straight forward like London which was annoying. It got annoying after a while anyway. 

I walked out exit 3 for Osaka Castle and could see the castle right up when climbing the stairs. I had seen that it was far and expected to walk a long way. I walked through the Citizens Forest Zone and followed the sign to the main temple which was Osaka Castle. In the big space, you'd find children in swimming suits playing in the fountain, people exercising (especially 60+) and pinic'ers. It's a big park with deep green leaves trees and colourful gardens. It was a mission to reach the castle but it was a nice day so I didn't mind. Up the hill, up the stairs, left path, round the gate, through the gate and straight up. 

Surrounded by smaller castles, gates, stone walls, moats and a river, just like you see in the movies (when castles at war are secured with water between getting over and on land) with golden details. I was aware that it has been rebuilt several times because of attacks at different times. The intention of the castle was to become central of a newly unified Japan under the Toyotomi rule. Soon after he died, the castle was attacked in 1615. It was rebuilt 5 years later but the main castle tower was hit by lightening and burnt down again. It was rebuilt with concrete construction which survived the city air raids! Today, the castle is a modern make with an elevator inside. Can you believe? Now a museum.

I moved onto Osakako which was a long way East of Osaka city. About 25minutes on the Chou (green) line I rest my feet. Exit at 1 and walk down to the bottom of the stairs and walk straight about 300m. The port is at this end and I got there in time for sunset. There was the Giant Ferris wheel, tempozan marketplace(with discover legoland), tempozan pier, pier of Santa Maria and Kaiyukan (Osaka aquarium). I strolled around watching the people taking it easy with my feet. There are many Japanese souvenirs you can buy but  I saw it as a jumble sale where they make you buy things you don't need. I was tempted to buy a kimono which I saw for 3000Y (cheapest I've seen) but I imagined that I would never wear it. Just like when I bought a Chinese garment - have you ever seen me wear it?. 

I was tempted to go to Universal World which was close by but I wouldn't have money to enter so I gave it a miss and planned it for when I come back. Or instead I could head to the actual one in America. 

On the same line, I went to Tenjinbashisuji shopping street changing on the Sakaisuji line. There were two Russians sitting opposite each shouting as they chat. There were spaces next to them for them to sit together and chat quietly. Instead they chose not to and disturbed the whole carriage. I seemed to be the only one bothered by this! By then my legs ached whenever I walk up the stairs. My energy was running out and I was already stupid tired. At my transfer, the platform had people queuing at where the train door would stop. You would never see London doing this. 

When I got out, the sky was deep blue but it wasn't dark. The shopping street is the longest street in Japan. I didn't plan on walking down the whole way because ow. 

Exit 4b, turn right immediately then take your first right up the street. 

Like an indoor tunnel, the street had food, clothing and restaurants. Again. I tried to find my mum some traditional Japanese loud Flip flips but we have big feet as a family and I couldn't find one bigger than a size 5! I found men's ones but they were twice the price and wayy too large. My search was to be continued. 

I took the same line back South to Nippombashi for the Kuromo market to see if I could find one. I bought green tea ice cream just because it was everyone and took a gamble with my money to see if I liked it. To be honest it was plain and the taste left a nasty mark on you as you lick but it was creamy so. A butterfly landed on my ice cream and for those who don't know. I hate butterflies. As I tried to flick it off, my ice cream ball fell off the cup and I just stood there. People didn't mind me but obviously noticed a green ball slowly melting on the floor so it had second looks. I was unsure whether I was upset because I had spent money and wasted it, whether I should have bought it earlier on or the fact that even if the butterfly eventually flew off I still wouldn't have eaten it. I threw the cup in a bin that was somehow next to me!? I told myself no afternoon snacks the next day for I have wasted 200Y. I hated butterflies even more. Instead I had dinner a little later at one of the restaurants in the tunnel. The menu was in complete Japanese so all I relied on were pictures. I had what looked like fried squid or maybe it was an octopus in a shell and salad. I didn't know what it was and the chef couldn't tell me either. He pointed at the animal in the water and I felt really clueless. It was squishy and tasteless but it was also ticked off my list of the things not to try again. It was cheap so I didn't mind. 

I took a stop to Dotomobori to see it at night and was I impressed? No.

I then took the Midosuji which is the red line back to Umeda for Osaka Grand station. I was so hoping I hadn't missed the last train back to Kyoto so all i could do was sit and wait. Then hurried through the following signs towards JR Osaka Sta searching for my platform like a spaz.

Luckily, I was fine so I took the next train back to Kyoto which took just under 30minutes after 4 stops. 

Upon my arrival, I went up the roof top of Kyoto for their famous sky view garden. I went up 8 escalators (which goes up so slowly) and

I had felt relaxed and pleased about my day. It was soon bedtime for me so I walked back to the hostel and prepared for an early night for my speedy Kyoto city tour before heading back to Tokyo. I was gutted to be leaving. 

Shinkansen to Kyoto!

Day 16

In most cases, you are sitting on the floor in Japan. I found myself on the floor while eating breakfast where I had a buttered bread roll from 7/11 with tea I had kept from another hostel. I was happy I carried my tea bags around with me as Japanese tea is disgusting. It's flowers soaked in hot water. While eating, I planned my day. I'm in Kyoto for only three days. 

In Japan, you have to leave your room every morning at 11 so they can clean. Everyday. To many people this is a pain but I didn't mind it. 

It rained today so I was getting attacked by umbrellas. I never bother with one because they're so much effort and you still get wet somehow anyway. I took the Orange (Ginza) Line to Ueno to change for Tokyo on another line. I caught the Shinkansen train (bullet) to Kyoto on platform 18 (final destination Hakata) which left bang on time. One comes every minute so I calmly walked there. It was the Nozoumi Superexpress No.31 bound train. Its' interior looks like a plane! It was 4 stops to Kyoto, South of Japan and my ticket was unreserved for carriage 1-3 and I sat two seats to myself. 

I prepared for the journey which I didn't know how long would take. The one way tickets (no return or student prices) for this is so expensive but I got over it quickly. It was either a bullet train or a bus which would take 799965hours. Sooo. 

You can manage with about 3000Yen a day which is £15. Excluding accommodation, I manage with up to 1,500Yen a day on public transport, food and tourist admissions in places of interest. As I have mentioned before there are hardly any tourists in Japan. And it was even more nicer for the locals not to mind me. They mind their own business as I roam around the city, trains and restaurants. I was curious why hardly any foreigners were here though. Really curious. 

The train is white and extremely smooth and the seats are blue. I look out to see the rain falling off the window determining how fast the train is moving. I used my time to read about Japan while snacking like a child. It had stopped raining within 30minutes out of Tokyo. People came on and off different stops and I was no longer alone on the 3rd stop. It didn't feel like 2 and a half hours when I arrived. I follows the exit sign all the way out of the station which took a while. The station is huge and I was struggling to find outside! 

I opened out the Kyoto city map and attempted to walk to the hostel based on the directions they had provided and it was okay. I became really good at map reading as I should have been. It was quite a walk from the station but once you get the hang of it, it's usually quicker. 

I checked in (about £13 a night) at K's House Kyoto which is supposed to be really popular. They also had a lift, luckily as I was on the 6th floor! I stayed in a female dorm room so I didn't have to put up with any horrible snoring (in bed before sleeping, a girl was vibrating the whole room so my plan failed). No shoes were allowed inside (they even give you a locker key for it) and you are given house slippers to wear. In Japan you make your own bed which is nice but sometimes you just want what you pay for. 'Darling, it's not a home stay'. 

I locked away my bag in my room which was fully occupied then walked out in the rain to grab some food before heading to Inari. Back at Kyoto Station on the Brown (Nara) JR. Line at lane 8/9, I was unsure if I was going the right way so I took a gamble and got on a train. Hardly anything is in English and I had realised that Kyoto was far more local and rural-like. The city is surrounded by mountains on three sides. Suburbs behaviour - one of the most bike-friendly cities but sadly I don't have time to hire one! It'ss rich, lively but quiet lively.

Being thrifty did not mean I miss out on some of the amazing food Japan had to offer. The problem was that I don't like seafood and it's everywhere and I just couldn't try any. It smells like the sea and that's extremely off putting. Udon had been my favourite back home so eating it in Japan was even better. I had been eating soup and noodles since I got here for very cheap (at 100-400Y) at random places. I told myself to try something crazy before I leave. I trust I will (if I have crazy-food money left).

Spending time here, I had noticed the extreme differences between Japan and China. I sat on the train very briefly to Inari (it took 5minutes!) watching the passengers. I got off at my stop to follow the sign to Fushima Inari-taisha Shrine and it was right outside! The entrance is free and it's always open. 

The temple Fushimi Inari Shrine is really important in southern Kyoto dedicated to Inari, leader of rice. Famous for thousands of its torii gates (red with block bottoms); the trail is set behind the main building leading to the forest of the sacred Mount Inari. It stands 233 meters which doesn't sound high but I can tell you myself that it was. The statues of foxes (I was trying to figure out what they were!) are thought to be Inari's messengers across the shrine grounds. 

As I was walking round exploring through thousands of torii gates basically following others, I was so unaware I was climbing Mount Inari! I was walking for so long up and down through more and more of the gates and kept stopping to find out where I was and how long I had until I can finish. Popular with tourists, you actually need to walk around the mountain rather than just take pictures of the front and leave. What's wrong with you?

 I kept walking upwards anyway getting slower and heavier - don't stop otherwise you would completely lose your energy to continue. The back of the shrine's leads towards the torii gate which is the start of the hiking trail. The parallel rows of gates are called Senbon Torii which literally means 'thousands of torii gates'. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies. The names of the donator and date of donation is written (black) on the back of each gate. Starting at 400,000Yen for a small gate to over one million yen for a large gate. Crazy. 

In an anti-climactic feel, I finally reached The Ichinomine shrine (spot 14) which is at the very top after about 2 hours! I was sweating and my top was sticking on my back. Lovely. I stayed for a while watching people take pictures of the shrine. There are sacred water pots next to every temple you visit. People wash their hands and mouth every time, every temple.

There are 19 spots around the mountain and my ugly toes were digging into the front of my wet converses so I was crying on my way down. It was so so far down. 

The sky was grey and the forest lamps started to turn on along the way. People live up this mountain selling goodies and food but they weren't to be seen. I wanted to hurry down before it got darker so I kind of rushed down. As soon as I slipped landing on my bum, I slowed right down and it started to rained. Not quite sure what life was trying to achieve there.

I kept walking down taking pictures eventually arriving to the exit. Three hours I had spent around the mountains! I got back on the JR line to Kyoto and dropped my 'kit' back at the hostel. It was getting late so I planned to eat dinner and walk to Gion. For dinner I ate Tanuki Udon in fish paste broth at a nearby restaurant (Nakau). I was greeted with too much of a welcome and given tea that looked green which was horrible. They were quick, cheap and satisfactory. Udon are thick, white wheat noodles. Apparently it's perfectly okay to slurp your noodles in fact it is almost expected. So eating loudly was no problem. I'm so noisy when I eat! 

I had felt more safe in the dark while I have travelled than I ever did in London! The feeling of being free overwhelmed me as I walked to Gion District by Kamogawa river after dinner. Drunken couples and friends were sitting by the the edge drinking and laughing away.

Gion is Kyoto's traditional entertainment district. The best place in the city to catch a glimpse of 'Old Japan'. It is considered as the single most attractive street in the whole of Asia (I planned to return here during the day). To eat at Gion, it's ridiculously expensive, you'd have to posh or stupid enough to spend over £100 on food just because it's in a famous area. To spot a geisha arriving to an appointment is unlikely. Well let me explain. The Gion area is where Maiko and Geiko live. They move from one banquet to another by chance. There are black cars securing Geisha ladies and I saw two come out of one and enter a Japanese Inn (Hatanaka which is one of the highest ranking ryokans). Apparently it's a dream to see or meet one so there are package deals at almost £200 to eat with them and say hello. A standard meal is 10,000Y so they say it's a good deal or is it? Geisha is an icon that symbolises Japan. They have white-painted faces, Japanese hairstyle in a bun with accessories in it and colourful silk kimonos. Maiko and Geiko are the terms used to refer to Giesha in Kyoto. Kyoto is known as the historical former capital of Japan. There remain 100 Maiko which are apprentice Geisha and 200 Geiko which are matured Geisha. Maiko is under 20 starting her career from 15 to be a professional within Japanese culture and entertainment. They go to a special school specifically for this to learn tea ceremony, flower arrangement and traditional dance and music. When they turn 20 they become a Geiko. They way I went to see them was the cheapest option. Most people don't get to. 

I initially saw them as dressed up ladies who dine with paparazzi waiting around to snap them. That they were painted white and dressed traditionally in Japanese garment and white socks with loud wooden flip-flops. Basically. Their hair is tied back and wrapped with chopsticks. But after learning who and what they were, I understood. It made a lot of sense then. 

I carried on walking to Hanamikoji-dori to traditional eateries which require reservation and perhaps membership. The buildings were very low, of brown shades and all the doors were covered or hidden so you couldn't see inside. Then I carried on further up to Tatsumi bashi (I could have sworn I saw Jackie Chan!!! He looks old though! No?). Anyway, through windows people were dining on the floor with no shoes or given one. All of a sudden men in suits and women in gowns were strutting pass me entering different bouncer secured places. At least this time the bouncers were local. 

I crossed the bridge to Pontocho-dori which is more lively. I walked passed workers who are forced to stand outside restaurants and encourage people to eat inside. I walk pass, they nod then I nod but then they nod even more. Like they bend over. I'm always thinking if I do it back even longer, that would seem rude and a little awkward. I had seen girls here like to hold hands in a 5 year old way without sounding rude. 

I walked around until my feet were swollen then started walking back the same way (so I wouldn't get lost) home. I watched people clink their glasses together and wave their diamond covered fingers on river bank restaurants. For the first time in Japan, I had seen two homeless people sleeping on benches by trees. I got back in good hands and I drank tea again while reading about Osaka. Tomorrow; another day, another city. 

I love what I do.