Thursday, 4 June 2015

12 hours in Osaka

Day 17

I woke up to someone's feet in my face from the top bunk and in dismay, I turned away to continue sleeping but couldn't. It was time to get up.

I jotted down my places of interest in Osaka during breakfast. And left before noon. I stopped by at Higashi Honganji temple which is known as Shinshu Honbyo. One of the largest Buddhist denominations in Japan and the hall is one of the largest wooden constructions in the world (rebuilt in 1895 after a fire destroyed some parts). It teaches Shinran which is a path to self-awakening. The temple is now the headquarters of the Ontani Branch of Jodo Shin-shu. I won't go on because I didn't stay long.

I walked to the under-path to the JR. Line and you know how in London, people cross the road at the sight of no cars and mainly just to avoid waiting for the walk sign (because they feel safe enough to cross). In Japan, even when there are no cars in sight, no body crosses! Or when the traffic light is red, the cars have stopped but only the walk sign hasn't turned green but yet still nobody crosses. Not until it's green (despite the red lights!). I crossed one (on a small road) and people looked at me as if I murdered a cat. I didn't do it again but waiting to cross is boring. Especially when there are no cars!! 

I took the JR Line to Osaka from Kyoto central Station following the sign that said 'For Osaka'. I was going up platform 5 then people started running so I did too. I jumped on the train then it left but I was unaware if it was going to Osaka so I waited to see. It takes 28minutes to get to Osaka so I timed the journey. If i was 30minutes in, I'm on the wrong train. The Japanese don't joke about their times. I went the second fastest way to Osaka by JR Shinkaisoku train which is 540Y each way. The Shinkansen train is 2730Y each way and only 15minutes faster. I think I can survive waiting an extra 15 and saving money for the next two days, jheeze. I didn't go through the budget option to get to Kyoto though as I didn't have time to waste. Although you could catch the night express bus which takes 7-8 hours from Tokyo to Kyoto/Osaka and is perhaps 3000-5000Y less. I contemplated whether I should have taken the bus though. If you had planned your trip before coming to Japan, you could buy a Japan Rail Pass in the UK but before coming to Japan (tourists cannot purchase this in Japan-sucks I know)! It's cheaper as a round trip but I didn't know what I was going to do so unfortunately I missed out on a great cheaper opportunity. Do bare this in mind when planning your trip to Japan. 

I arrived exactly after 28minutes and was glad to have been on the correct train. I followed the crowd to the exit and immediately got hold of a map. I had 12hours. 

Osaka has a population of 19million and appears to be overshadowed by Tokyo. Economically, Osaka is actually the 7th largest city in the world after Paris. In the working heart of Kansai, Osaka is famous for the gruff manners of citizens and eating. I went to Osaka to experience a modern Japanese city (it's also a port city) as Tokyo is extremely urban. 

I went straight to Umeda Sky Building through the Grand Front Osaka shopping mall and crossed the road to get to an under-path. Turn right and cross the road and again on your left and you will see the under-path entrance (Umeda Sky building is right on the other side). It's close to the central exit of Osaka city station so you can't get lost. 

People in business attires walked around among school children in bucket hats, collar tags and lunch boxes. Site F is the FunFun Plaza which provided the observatory viewing so head up to floor 3 via the escalators. This is where I got the lift to go further up. I joined the lift with an American and he kept making me laugh with how nervous he was going up the lift to the 35th Floor. We then had to go up a narrow escalator surrounded by guarded windows. The American had his eyes closed the whole way while I kept saying it was okay and the sight was beautiful! This leads to the observatory deck and ticket office for the floating garden. I didn't feel the need to go up there as the pictures on that floor showed me enough and what I had seen was more than enough. Admission is 800Y for adults (no student prices). Luckily it was a nice day as I got to see the city from up top and work out what was where. 

The building is 173m high and fitted with great safety measures which is earthquake-proof and protected from any form of disaster. The floating garden at the top is surrounded by mirror windows that cover the building. It beautifully reflects the sky on surface and it so appears as if the garden is floating in the blue. The 'mirrors' make it look like one building rather than two!

Calculating the time I had, I went back the same way and headed to the nearest subway through the Grand Front Osaka again. I walked to Hep Five building where the big red Ferris wheel was. It's completely red to match the shopping mall interior plan; or was the interior plan supposed to match the Ferris Wheel? It costs about 700Y to go up but have you been on the London eye? No? Exactly so. 
(If you have then good for you, I've been to the one in Belfast and it was slow)

My all day subway ticket was 800Y so my first stop was Shinsaibashi station for America-mura, Sankaku Park. 200Y more expensive than Tokyo, I was confused. The place is a drag of a shopping strip with many arcade rooms, imported American products. bright colours and unnecessary billboards so people say it's the place to be. You will find clothes on sale, lingerie, Indian imported fashion clothing, Japanese Surperdrugs, restaurants and more clothing shops. Men are seen drinking beer at all times of the day and I had thought it was what Japan had in common with England. Oi oooooi'

I walked all the way up to Hommachi stop in time for the subway. I took it again on the Midosuji Line to Namba for Dotombori. Identical to where I have just been but better at night time(I was there during the day so planned to return in the evening). Bigger and wider, people are visually seen crossing the road to enter into further shopping strips. It's hard to tell who is local or who is a tourist. You'd catch Japanese taking selfies where I do. If you like shopping then this is a place for you. 

My next stop was to Shinsekan which has been my favourite stop since I had been to Japan. So many different colours, designs, styles 

I walked through some sort of alley where all the Japanese style pubs are found. They are very small with low ceilings that could fit up to atleast 8 people at a time. I chose one bar and took an Asahi beer break at a standing pub which was weird. My beer costed me 350Y which meant I weren't allowed icecream or any snacks today. I stayed for a while talking to a man with a translation app on a phone. He was so enthusiastic to speak English despite not knowing the language or even the basics. I weren't enthusiastic to speak Japanese (I already know it's so hard) so I couldn't feel the same way. The bar tenders also used the app to ask me questions until an English speaking customer came in and did the job. He lived in Canada for a year to study being the benefactor to learning English. The bar tenders were 21 and 23 and really surprised to find that I was 20. Drinking in Japan is for 20 year olds and over. In some places you have to be 21, especially to buy alcohol in the shop. One of the bar tenders called Koko finished work at 4 which wasn't long ahead and offered to walk me to one of my places of interest on my list. Apparently it wasn't far. The man I had been speaking to initially offered to buy me another drink but I kindly said no so instead he paid for the drink I had finished. He was extremely kind and waved me goodbye many a time. So I had saved 350Y and planned to have ice cream soon! 

We walked to Abeno Harukas which was getting bigger and higher as we got closer. The building is stuck together with 3 counterparts of shopping malls, hotel rooms and offices like a step up ladder. It's higher than Umeda Sky building and more expensive(1500Y) to go up and see Osaka from up top. Ofcourse I didn't bother. The girl I was with, Koko, was so small, every step I took, she took three. Her voice was very high and squeaky and she was so tiny like i could fit her in my bag. We separated as we made our own way to different subways. We kept waving at each other and I didn't know when to stop. Eventually I turned around and the waving fanatic was over. 

I took the nearby subway to Tanimachi 4-chome changing on the chuo line to visit the Osaka castle at Morinomiya station. I got off a stop too early and ended up going the wrong way having to go back again to the subway. 
Do note the transfer between leaving the station, getting to your platform, entering the under path for the subway is just so long! Sometimes you're walking pass so many shops under ground, you'd think you're not going to your subway line. It's not straight forward like London which was annoying. It got annoying after a while anyway. 
I walked out exit 3 for Osaka Castle and could see the castle right up when climbing the stairs. I had seen that it was far and expected to walk a long way. I walked through the Citizens Forest Zone and followed the sign to the main temple which was Osaka Castle. In the big space, you'd find children in swimming suits playing in the fountain, people exercising (especially 60+) and pinic'ers. It's a big park with deep green leaves trees and colourful gardens. It was a mission to reach the castle but it was a nice day so I didn't mind. Up the hill, up the stairs, left path, round the gate, through the gate and straight up. 
Surrounded by smaller castles, gates, stone walls, moats and a river, just like you see in the movies (when castles at war are secured with water between getting over and on land) with golden details. I was aware that it has been rebuilt several times because of attacks at different times. The intention of the castle was to become central of a newly unified Japan under the Toyotomi rule. Soon after he died, the castle was attacked in 1615. It was rebuilt 5 years later but the main castle tower was hit by lightening and burnt down again. It was rebuilt with concrete construction which survived the city air raids! Today, the castle is a modern make with an elevator inside. Can you believe? Now a museum.

I moved onto Osakako which was a long way East of Osaka city. About 25minutes on the Chou (green) line I rest my feet. Exit at 1 and walk down to the bottom of the stairs and walk straight about 300m. The port is at this end and I got there in time for sunset. There was the Giant Ferris wheel, tempozan marketplace(with discover legoland), tempozan pier, pier of Santa Maria and Kaiyukan (Osaka aquarium). I strolled around watching the people taking it easy with my feet. There are many Japanese souvenirs you can buy but  I saw it as a jumble sale where they make you buy things you don't need. I was tempted to buy a kimono which I saw for 3000Y (cheapest I've seen) but I imagined that I would never wear it. Just like when I bought a Chinese garment - have you ever seen me wear it?. 

I was tempted to go to Universal World which was close by but I wouldn't have money to enter so I gave it a miss and planned it for when I come back. Or instead I could head to the actual one in America. 

On the same line, I went to Tenjinbashisuji shopping street changing on the Sakaisuji line. There were two Russians sitting opposite each shouting as they chat. There were spaces next to them for them to sit together and chat quietly. Instead they chose not to and disturbed the whole carriage. I seemed to be the only one bothered by this! By then my legs ached whenever I walk up the stairs. My energy was running out and I was already stupid tired. At my transfer, the platform had people queuing at where the train door would stop. You would never see London doing this. 

When I got out, the sky was deep blue but it wasn't dark. The shopping street is the longest street in Japan. I didn't plan on walking down the whole way because ow. 
Exit 4b, turn right immediately then take your first right up the street. 
Like an indoor tunnel, the street had food, clothing and restaurants. Again. I tried to find my mum some traditional Japanese loud Flip flips but we have big feet as a family and I couldn't find one bigger than a size 5! I found men's ones but they were twice the price and wayy too large. My search was to be continued. 

I took the same line back South to Nippombashi for the Kuromo market to see if I could find one. I bought green tea ice cream just because it was everyone and took a gamble with my money to see if I liked it. To be honest it was plain and the taste left a nasty mark on you as you lick but it was creamy so. A butterfly landed on my ice cream and for those who don't know. I hate butterflies. As I tried to flick it off, my ice cream ball fell off the cup and I just stood there. People didn't mind me but obviously noticed a green ball slowly melting on the floor so it had second looks. I was unsure whether I was upset because I had spent money and wasted it, whether I should have bought it earlier on or the fact that even if the butterfly eventually flew off I still wouldn't have eaten it. I threw the cup in a bin that was somehow next to me!? I told myself no afternoon snacks the next day for I have wasted 200Y. I hated butterflies even more. Instead I had dinner a little later at one of the restaurants in the tunnel. The menu was in complete Japanese so all I relied on were pictures. I had what looked like fried squid or maybe it was an octopus in a shell and salad. I didn't know what it was and the chef couldn't tell me either. He pointed at the animal in the water and I felt really clueless. It was squishy and tasteless but it was also ticked off my list of the things not to try again. It was cheap so I didn't mind. 

I took a stop to Dotomobori to see it at night and was I impressed? No.

I then took the Midosuji which is the red line back to Umeda for Osaka Grand station. I was so hoping I hadn't missed the last train back to Kyoto so all i could do was sit and wait. Then hurried through the following signs towards JR Osaka Sta searching for my platform like a spaz.

Luckily, I was fine so I took the next train back to Kyoto which took just under 30minutes after 4 stops. 

Upon my arrival, I went up the roof top of Kyoto for their famous sky view garden. I went up 8 escalators (which goes up so slowly) and
I had felt relaxed and pleased about my day. It was soon bedtime for me so I walked back to the hostel and prepared for an early night for my speedy Kyoto city tour before heading back to Tokyo. I was gutted to be leaving. 


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