Day 11
I had fried rice and egg for breakfast today back at Kayun Downtown hostel. Strange but nice but strange, can't quite fault it. Apart from the fact that the egg yolk was runny, streaming down my vegetables.
In the morning, I headed to Pandangbai with a group of other backpackers who were all boys strangely. Australians so that meant they were extremely tall, gym built, far too tanned with golden brown or crispy blonde hair and a dragged accent. The organisation was identical to Thailand with the bus trips to the boat harbour. We were stuck on the bus for 3 hours so we all chatted away about what we do. I took away some valuable lessons and thoughts with me.
Pandangbai is a beach and the port for boats leaving to Gili Trawangan and other islands. The Gili Islands are an archipelago of three small islands; Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air. The harbour had so many workers and vendors who were just annoying as those back in the city. Some were children! I can imagine it being a help for their mothers though.
The boat felt like a submarine if that makes sense. I couldn't see the sea from where I was sitting but the distance trees and other boats. As we moved, the boat was extremely rocky in a soft way and I was already feeling seasick. There was a movie 'Parker' playing with ENGLISH SUBTITLES! My sister's husband Jason Statham was playing bad guy. I was so happy despite the speed of the boat but I was comfortable. The unnecessary air con blew away inside and I was seated to myself on two chairs. They were selling Bintang beer but not water for 25IDR.
We arrived close to 4pm.
I walked the whole island in 2.25 hours (it should take 1-2 hours but I was slow) and i checked in Gili Tralala Homestay before sunset. It costed £10 for two nights, again it doesn't get cheaper than that. Only a 5 minute walk to the main strip but in a quiet village with other locals and a few tourists. I liked this. The island has no cars or no noisy motorbikes whatsoever. There are bikes and rental bikes and horse carts as taxis. I had asked whether the horses are fixed a break and my answer was there there are day and night shifts horses. It was a little like Koh Phi Phi but wider and less hippy. Also less tattoo parlours actually. Koh Phi Phi has so many!?
I had noticed coloured ribbons around pigeons ankles which got me concerned as I saw the same types of ribbons around chickens.
There are a lot of turtle conservations here advertising safety for them. I had learnt a bit about them before moving on from one turtle shack. There are 7 species of sea turtles;
Hawksbill
Leatherback
Loggerhead
Green
Olive Ridley
Kemps Ridley
Flat Back
They eat jellyfish, seaweed and crabs and in Indonesia they have the largest diversity. Sadly they become extinct with poaching, ocean pollution and accidental catch. You'd donate 200,000IDR
People were seen picking up litter on the beach but I was assured that it was for some kind of compensation or reward. Later on I had seen a centre where a lady was weighing each litter bag. I didn't stay on for what happened next so I never got to know.
I had planned to buy a boat ticket for the next day going to Gili Meno and Gili Air at the harbour. You can buy one at the travel agency but you will pay more because of commission so beware of that or remember to negotiate. Turned out I can get one in the morning right before it leaves. I watched a man gut two fishes by the sea which was quite disturbing but I still watched. He cut the fish in half then ripped out everything inside and threw it to the sea. He was a nice man though, spoke some great English.
I trusted street food again so I opted for dinner at the night market. I sure fried noodles with chicken for 15,000IDR; this is less than £1.50. Beer is pricey here although it's cheap for us but when the alcohol is more than food, I chose not to purchase any. I sat at as checked table beside many other food vendors selling meals for so cheap.
While eating I watched a couple awkwardly sit in silent.
Bumped into the guys I had met previously in Kuta while I was eating so they joined me to eat too. We all ate chatted away talking about the most random things such as politics, travel info, eating humans (don't ask), illegal substances and their lives. One guy was from Switzerland travelling for 6 months, one from Chicago in Bali for a month holiday and a Norwegian also travelling for 6 months, maybe more.
We sat for a while before heading to different bars early in the night. They drank Bintang one after the after while I felt needless have any at the time. Because why?
We continued to another bar where they had better music and stayed there for two beers again. We then went to Juggle juggle which is a Pre-Game bar where you'd play a BeerPong tournament. We joined and it was actually really enjoyable. It's basically aiming a ball in the cups partly filled with beer and if the opposite player gets it in yours, you drink it. It's a trashy game but popular at parties. We did three games and I no longer wanted to shoot down beers so we luckily moved to another bar after the other for some live music, electro disco, psychedelic and finally RnB! I definitely stayed although the DJ was trying to be a DJ by what they think being a DJ consists of. It was annoying hearing the scratches and the wiki-wiki-wow sketch every minutes but I was thrown back to the old skool.
I had asked for a rum and coke but got whiskey instead unless it was rum that tasted like whiskey. It was less than £2 and the beers are priced the same. The night was okay and being with the guys meant that i didn't have to pay for all of my drinks even though I was more than happy to (I was only going to have two drinks anyway). I watched as they look for girls to talk to which was interesting. I tried to explain 'it's not everyday girl for guys' - if they had shown interest, okay. Don't insist, do NOT beg, don't go back if they've said no, if they don't follow don't stop, if they don't look twice (with an upward eye smile) don't bother. You have a lot of drunks and slow ones not knowing what they are going and some making a grab but you can kindly say no and take their hands off you. I found myself saying to the guys, leave her alone - she doesn't want you. Or to the girls that If they wanted a long-term relationship with a guy not from where they're from, don't bother. Girls don't do it, guys keep it to yourself.
Clubs closes around 3am then there is nothing around. So bed it is for all of them. And some have to cycle to the other side of the island to get home. Luckily mine was just up the corner more up inside the island. Like in the middle.
Day 12
I was up first thing and was out for the day to tour the other two islands. I managed to get a glass bottom boat to myself for £5 with a driver of course. We went towards Gili Meno and he showed me a shipwreck not far off the island.
We stopped in Gili Meno and I was there for 2 hours then we went off to Gili Air.
Through the glass, I had seen humongous turtles, coral reef and around the other side the fish garden which was so beautiful! I had done snorkeling already in Thailand so I didn't feel like doing it again to be honest. It's not so much fun unless you dive (which I will never do). I don't plan to ever dive no. Just because.
Gili Air is definitely more beautiful than the other two islands and a hell of a lot smaller. I had spent under an hour walking around the whole island and had some local lunch by the village. The people here all look the same really. You could tell me the man I had met to take me somewhere and another man would come and I wouldn't know. Seriously. Most of the men like their hair long and some have Rasta hair and high five me wherever I go. But I'm not Jamaican. It's funny because they ask me where I'm from and I say England or London. They immediately say you from Manchester right? In London? Or Newcastle. I remind them constantly that Manchester is more North of England but they never understand. They name all the English players they know and say they've met the queen.
I came back to Gili Trawangan and bumped into the same guys again and we all went to the Paradise Sunset bar which is South of the beach/island (from the harbour). Clearly in the name, the bar is famous for their serene sunset views and settings. It's quite a walk round but it's not far like crazy far. It was still warm enough to swim in the sea (when I mean swim I mean sit on the seabed and enjoy the sun and cool water). There's another one further down but that's just too far. The seabed had squids and starfishes chilling by the rocks. White crabs were chasing each other in the sands so it's always a scare whenever you see them (they look like sand balls with dark eyes). We ordered dinner right before the sunset and enjoyed. I had calamari and complimentary fries with salsa and hot sauce. It was superb and I felt so relaxed. The North beach is more vacant with less boats and beautifully made huts. I planned to head there the next day before my boat to Bali.
In the evening, I enjoyed some live music at Sama Sama (reggae) bar and the music were from Bruno Mars, Robbie Williams and all those soppy 'I love you so why you leaving me baby' songs.
Interesting because the island has a large mosque right in the middle of the party spots. In the evening, men are seen praying and children are in sarongs attending services. I had thought perhaps the workers just serve and earn their living wages but most are seen drinking too. They have daily chants on speakers and during Ramadan atleast the island is kind of shut down with no drinking and loud music. Mushroom is very popular on this island and very easy to get. You'd have men going around chilled people just chatting on cushions in bars asking them whether they'd like some mush'. Some ask for esasty and some weed. I didn't see or hear any crazy stories about one taking it on the island but it's quite dangerous asking for the price or even considering it. As most can be undercovers. Although they are unlikely to be (Thailand very likely) they are considered cheap but best to avoid.
Day 13
I spent my morning on the beach behaving like I was seriously on vacation. It felt good for a while until I got bored of sunbathing and my book. I had bought tonic water at the bar but the tax was ridiculous and ended up spending any more than I would have in the shop. So completely avoid restaurants with tax service. Some actually say tax free so there are options.
I decided to walk around the island again but along to beach to find some spots. There were some beautiful villas (that I really want to buy in the future) and hotels with pools. Bungalows, spas and souvenir shops sparse along the strip of the island.
I found some cool spots to stay on before moving on with headphones in my ears. I had to hurry though as the last boat back to Bali was nearing. Sandy feet and wet shoulders, my time by the beaches was nearly over. In a day time I will be back in the city again!
There's not so much you can do on the island apart from the obvious water sports, walking, cycling, tours to other islands or to Lombok, eating and drinking(there are so many options).
The boat transport was cheap actually. I paid about £40 for boat to the island and back to Bali plus a shuttle bus to the harbour (2hours North Bali) and back too. If you have luggage when boarding a boat, do be last to put it on so you'll be the first to receive yours at your destination. Otherwise wait a while and watch the others grab theirs and rush off to their location. John Wick' the film played this time in the boat but I fell asleep in the cold. I made back to Kuta in the evening and prepared for my long ass flight to Japan!! Next stop!