Sunday, 31 May 2015

Understanding Bali

Many of the Balinese wear a flower (usually a frangipani) tucked behind their ears. This symbolises purity and is used for their prayers and daily offerings. 

The people of Bali are money grabbers so do be careful when spending (check your change) and changing your currency (change at hotel or experienced centres). I got scammed twice very easily at a 'currency exchange stall' along the streets in Jalan Legian. They count it in front of you, make you count it too making them look legit. So always know how much you are supposed to receive. Luckily, the second time I was scammed. I calculated it correctly and demanded the rest of my money. The first time I sadly lost £20. I shall consider it as charity. 

In most places there are flower pots made out of leaves with a smoking incest as a form of blessing and offering. When giving people money, they wave it around or tap it on this plant pot. 

There are no public transport in Bali but arranged shuttle buses, government taxis and motorbike taxis (most of my money went on this sadly). You can book tours from a number of tourist office but prices vary and you can haggle the cost! 


Restaurants use 'Free Wifi' as their attraction for people to eat there. Sad really. 

Dehydration is very likely on this island so making sure you are topping up your bottled water is important. This can avoid a lot of horrible problems! If so, it would pass in 3 days depending on how much rest you get and how well you can make yourself drink and eat. It is actually quite hard! 

Most people come from different islands in Indonesia to work in Bali which is a touristic area. I plan to head to the remote islands with my boyfriend next time as this is where I wanted to go in the first place. 

The traffic is quite poor and slow in Jalan Legian mainly and everywhere because of the narrow one-way streets that make it difficult to move around. But there are so many motorbikes and vans on the road which is only just about organised. 

Ladies wear socks here with their flip flops. I can never understand why. 

Everyone speaks pretty good English except the scammers (unless they pretend they don't understand you WHEN CLEARLY THEY DO). 

The most common questions are: where you from?, what is your name?, taxi?, transport?, where you stay?

You have to pay airport tax when you leave so make sure you have 200,000IDR on you on your way home! ridiculous. 

Vacay to the Islands, Lombok

Day 11 

I had fried rice and egg for breakfast today back at Kayun Downtown hostel. Strange but nice but strange, can't quite fault it. Apart from the fact that the egg yolk was runny, streaming down my vegetables.



In the morning, I headed to Pandangbai with a group of other backpackers who were all boys strangely. Australians so that meant they were extremely tall, gym built, far too tanned with golden brown or crispy blonde hair and a dragged accent. The organisation was identical to Thailand with the bus trips to the boat harbour. We were stuck on the bus for 3 hours so we all chatted away about what we do. I took away some valuable lessons and thoughts with me. 
 Pandangbai is a beach and the port for boats leaving to Gili Trawangan and other islands. The Gili Islands are an archipelago of three small islands; Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air. The harbour had so many workers and vendors who were just annoying as those back in the city. Some were children! I can imagine it being a help for their mothers though.



The boat felt like a submarine if that makes sense. I couldn't see the sea from where I was sitting but the distance trees and other boats. As we moved, the boat was extremely rocky in a soft way and I was already feeling seasick. There was a movie 'Parker' playing with ENGLISH SUBTITLES! My sister's husband Jason Statham was playing bad guy. I was so happy despite the speed of the boat but I was comfortable. The unnecessary air con blew away inside and I was seated to myself on two chairs. They were selling Bintang beer but not water for 25IDR. 

We arrived close to 4pm.

I walked the whole island in 2.25 hours (it should take 1-2 hours but I was slow) and i checked in Gili Tralala Homestay before sunset. It costed £10 for two nights, again it doesn't get cheaper than that. Only a 5 minute walk to the main strip but in a quiet village with other locals and a few tourists. I liked this. The island has no cars or no noisy motorbikes whatsoever. There are bikes and rental bikes and horse carts as taxis. I had asked whether the horses are fixed a break and my answer was there there are day and night shifts horses. It was a little like Koh Phi Phi but wider and less hippy. Also less tattoo parlours actually. Koh Phi Phi has so many!?

I had noticed coloured ribbons around pigeons ankles which got me concerned as I saw the same types of ribbons around chickens. 

There are a lot of turtle conservations here advertising safety for them. I had learnt a bit about them before moving on from one turtle shack. There are 7 species of sea turtles;
Hawksbill
Leatherback
Loggerhead 
Green
Olive Ridley 
Kemps Ridley 
Flat Back
They eat jellyfish, seaweed and crabs and in Indonesia they have the largest diversity. Sadly they become extinct with poaching, ocean pollution and accidental catch. You'd donate 200,000IDR

People were seen picking up litter on the beach but I was assured that it was for some kind of compensation or reward. Later on I had seen a centre where a lady was weighing each litter bag. I didn't stay on for what happened next so I never got to know. 

I had planned to buy a boat ticket for the next day going to Gili Meno and Gili Air at the harbour. You can buy one at the travel agency but you will pay more because of commission so beware of that or remember to negotiate. Turned out I can get one in the morning right before it leaves. I watched a man gut two fishes by the sea which was quite disturbing but I still watched. He cut the fish in half then ripped out everything inside and threw it to the sea. He was a nice man though, spoke some great English.

I trusted street food again so I opted for dinner at the night market. I sure fried noodles with chicken for 15,000IDR; this is less than £1.50. Beer is pricey here although it's cheap for us but when the alcohol is more than food, I chose not to purchase any. I sat at as checked table beside many other food vendors selling meals for so cheap. 
While eating I watched a couple awkwardly sit in silent.

Bumped into the guys I had met previously in Kuta while I was eating so they joined me to eat too. We all ate chatted away talking about the most random things such as politics, travel info, eating humans (don't ask), illegal substances and their lives. One guy was from Switzerland travelling for 6 months, one from Chicago in Bali for a month holiday and a Norwegian also travelling for 6 months, maybe more. 
We sat for a while before heading to different bars early in the night. They drank Bintang one after the after while I felt needless have any at the time. Because why?

We continued to another bar where they had better music and stayed there for two beers again. We then went to Juggle juggle which is a Pre-Game bar where you'd play a BeerPong tournament. We joined and it was actually really enjoyable. It's basically aiming a ball in the cups partly filled with beer and if the opposite player gets it in yours, you drink it. It's a trashy game but popular at parties. We did three games and I no longer wanted to shoot down beers so we luckily moved to another bar after the other for some live music, electro disco, psychedelic and finally RnB! I definitely stayed although the DJ was trying to be a DJ by what they think being a DJ consists of. It was annoying hearing the scratches and the wiki-wiki-wow sketch every minutes but I was thrown back to the old skool.

 I had asked for a rum and coke but got whiskey instead unless it was rum that tasted like whiskey. It was less than £2 and the beers are priced the same. The night was okay and being with the guys meant that i didn't have to pay for all of my drinks even though I was more than happy to (I was only going to have two drinks anyway). I watched as they look for girls to talk to which was interesting. I tried to explain 'it's not everyday girl for guys' - if they had shown interest, okay. Don't insist, do NOT beg, don't go back if they've said no, if they don't follow don't stop, if they don't look twice (with an upward eye smile) don't bother. You have a lot of drunks and slow ones not knowing what they are going and some making a grab but you can kindly say no and take their hands off you. I found myself saying to the guys, leave her alone - she doesn't want you. Or to the girls that If they wanted a long-term relationship with a guy not from where they're from, don't bother. Girls don't do it, guys keep it to yourself. 

Clubs closes around 3am then there is nothing around. So bed it is for all of them. And some have to cycle to the other side of the island to get home. Luckily mine was just up the corner more up inside the island. Like in the middle. 

Day 12
I was up first thing and was out for the day to tour the other two islands. I managed to get a glass bottom boat to myself for £5 with a driver of course. We went towards Gili Meno and he showed me a shipwreck not far off the island. 

We stopped in Gili Meno and I was there for 2 hours then we went off to Gili Air. 
Through the glass, I had seen humongous turtles, coral reef and around the other side the fish garden which was so beautiful! I had done snorkeling already in Thailand so I didn't feel like doing it again to be honest. It's not so much fun unless you dive (which I will never do). I don't plan to ever dive no. Just because.



Gili Air is definitely more beautiful than the other two islands and a hell of a lot smaller. I had spent under an hour walking around the whole island and had some local lunch by the village. The people here all look the same really. You could tell me the man I had met to take me somewhere and another man would come and I wouldn't know. Seriously. Most of the men like their hair long and some have Rasta hair and high five me wherever I go. But I'm not Jamaican. It's funny because they ask me where I'm from and I say England or London. They immediately say you from Manchester right? In London? Or Newcastle. I remind them constantly that Manchester is more North of England but they never understand. They name all the English players they know and say they've met the queen. 
I came back to Gili Trawangan and bumped into the same guys again and we all went to the Paradise Sunset bar which is South of the beach/island (from the harbour). Clearly in the name, the bar is famous for their serene sunset views and settings. It's quite a walk round but it's not far like crazy far. It was still warm enough to swim in the sea (when I mean swim I mean sit on the seabed and enjoy the sun and cool water). There's another one further down but that's just too far. The seabed had squids and starfishes chilling by the rocks. White crabs were chasing each other in the sands so it's always a scare whenever you see them (they look like sand balls with dark eyes). We ordered dinner right before the sunset and enjoyed. I had calamari and complimentary fries with salsa and hot sauce. It was superb and I felt so relaxed. The North beach is more vacant with less boats and beautifully made huts. I planned to head there the next day before my boat to Bali. 


In the evening, I enjoyed some live music at Sama Sama (reggae) bar and the music were from Bruno Mars, Robbie Williams and all those soppy 'I love you so why you leaving me baby' songs. 

Interesting because the island has a large mosque right in the middle of the party spots. In the evening, men are seen praying and children are in sarongs attending services. I had thought perhaps the workers just serve and earn their living wages but most are seen drinking too. They have daily chants on speakers and during Ramadan atleast the island is kind of shut down with no drinking and loud music. Mushroom is very popular on this island and very easy to get. You'd have men going around chilled people just chatting on cushions in bars asking them whether they'd like some mush'. Some ask for esasty and some weed. I didn't see or hear any crazy stories about one taking it on the island but it's quite dangerous asking for the price or even considering it. As most can be undercovers. Although they are unlikely to be (Thailand very likely) they are considered cheap but best to avoid.

Day 13 
I spent my morning on the beach behaving like I was seriously on vacation. It felt good for a while until I got bored of sunbathing and my book. I had bought tonic water at the bar but the tax was ridiculous and ended up spending any more than I would have in the shop. So completely avoid restaurants with tax service. Some actually say tax free so there are options. 

I decided to walk around the island again but along to beach to find some spots. There were some beautiful villas (that I really want to buy in the future) and hotels with pools. Bungalows, spas and souvenir shops sparse along the strip of the island. 


I found some cool spots to stay on before moving on with headphones in my ears. I had to hurry though as the last boat back to Bali was nearing. Sandy feet and wet shoulders, my time by the beaches was nearly over. In a day time I will be back in the city again!

There's not so much you can do on the island apart from the obvious water sports, walking, cycling, tours to other islands or to Lombok, eating and drinking(there are so many options). 

The boat transport was cheap actually. I paid about £40 for boat to the island and back to Bali plus a shuttle bus to the harbour (2hours North Bali) and back too. If you have luggage when boarding a boat, do be last to put it on so you'll be the first to receive yours at your destination. Otherwise wait a while and watch the others grab theirs and rush off to their location. John Wick' the film played this time in the boat but I fell asleep in the cold. I made back to Kuta in the evening and prepared for my long ass flight to Japan!! Next stop!

Thursday, 28 May 2015

Visiting Ubud, Bali

Day 10

I caught the shuttle bus to Ubud arriving late noon (I spent the morning getting spoilt in my hotel with room service - i was feeling much better now) and checked in at Happy Mango Tree Hostel (back to the budget!). The hostel is located in Bisma street which is uphill and filled with rice paddles along the road so it has such beautiful view all the way. I was staying in a colourful and hippy accommodation with reggae and Jamaican prints all over the place. The beds are made of bamboo and there is a ceiling fan for £5 a night. Seemed great to me! If you had booked a private room in Ubud, you would have to pay for 2 persons even if it's just for you. So a mixed dorm is ideal and £5 is the lowest rate. 

I left straight away to start my day and I was liking Ubud already! Walking left of the hostel then right straight down to the Main Street, I started to walk to the famous rice fields. There are rice fields where I am staying but this one was vast. So Ubud is more arty farty hippy classy despite the poor littering but it's full of arts and crafts, pottery, wood carving, antique products and homemade goodies.

I had went to the Tegallalang Rice Fields by walking 2 hours from central Ubud. It is particularly famous for its scenes of rice paddies and terraces along rivers.
(You can get a mototaxi for 50,000IDR return - pay no more). Make sure you take a drink and good walking shoes. It's quite a climb around with sandy steps (very slippery) and a long walk around. I didn't spend too long there as I didn't have much time but I was there a while; long enough to ache. I decided to take the moto back so I didn't have to walk in the dark. 

Ubud is a more quieter place than Kuta with less tourists and more culture. You'll find beautifully made temples, children in their atzec school uniforms and many restaurants. They hold traditional Balinese dancing every night at 7.30pm for 80,000IDR.

My driver Nyoman makes 50$ a month being a taxi driver and he has been one for 10 years. He among the others in Ubud are the kindest people on earth! He drove me to my escape plan to Pantai Klotex where no tourists are found. A secret destination which I was excited to go to. As Bali is a volcanic island, there is a selection of black sand beaches and white fine beaches. I was on a mission to find some beautiful beaches so being close to East Bali was my chance! As they are not promoted and usually sacred, the beach is quiet and clean. 7am the next day on my way to Pantai Klotek, a motorbike ran over a dog (the dog was clueless!) and when we drove pass it, its head was twisted over and I had felt mentally disturbed for hours. I insisted someone remove it from the road but the driver said 'everyday dogs die'. We sat in silence for the rest of the way and soon the dog was no longer news. 

We arrived and I was amazed. Pantai Klotex has a black beach sparkled with its dark fine sands. The sands would be made of basalt created by lava that has flowed into the ocean in an explosion before reaching the shore and cools. I may be wrong though but this is what I understand. The locals spoke no English and most were working. Some were surfing and the beach was just so sparkly. I'm aware I've mentioned this already but it's beautiful. There were rubbish scattered on the upper part of this beach and so many bat-like birds were flapping around disturbing the air. So everything was happening all at once! I walked along the beach to see large wave stopping rocks (there's a name for this but sadly my geography has passed) and huts for workers. I waved at any children and attempted to paddle the unpromising sea water. It's not somewhere to sunbathe and swim (although the locals are found swimming and surfing).

I had seen workers on the beach keeping busy so I volunteered to help separate the white pebbles (they package these to sell for house building) to the blacks. Sadly I have no pictures of this but I've treasured some great memories taking part. I definitely want to come back to Bali and find some more secret places. 

It hit midday and it was time to head back to Ubud. Before going back to Kuta, I visited the monkey temple nearby. Word of advice, don't be a fool and bring food & valuables to the forest otherwise riot and theft. Other than that, do go. It's a Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary with three temples (holy spring temple, cremation temple and main temple) and 600 monkeys (long tailed Macaques) including infants. The forest shows the harmonious coexistence of humans and nature. There is a deer farm within the forest where the monkeys enter and play among them which was weird. You don't really see the two together. The site is Hindu and there are many offerings of plant pots around given by the locals. It's a long path around the site would take you an hour with stopping to watch the monkeys disturbingly fornicate or play. I had seen monkeys snatch flip flops off people but only because they were standing too close to them. The monkeys are not chained in any way. They are fed sweet potato and fruits all day.
I stayed on to watch the monkeys for a while leaving them undisturbed unlike the others. Tourists can really be annoying and irritating. Especially when there are signs saying please do not feed the monkeys or touch them. When one does, they scream and complain. Oh get a grip. The monkeys do jump on you whenever they want to so if you are scared, you'd need to be careful and keep hold of your belongings! (they love water bottles - even though they can't open it). But when they do jump on you, be still and calm. I'm not sure if i enjoyed the monkey's testicles on my neck but i loved my time there.

I took the bus back to Kuta and spent my evening in Seminyak which is more north than Kuta on the white sandy beach by the bars. Kuta to Seminyak is about 20minutes depending on traffic by a moto taxi (you can rent one yourself) but spend no more than 40,000IDR each way.

Tuesday, 26 May 2015

Jodie O'Shea Orphanage Bali

My day as a volunteer'

It was set up in memory of Jodie who tragically died in the Bali bombing in 2002 while she was travelling from Australia. She had already made plans to set up an orphanage or a children centre so her parents set one up in her name in Bali 2005. 89 children are now at the orphanage within 10years. The youngest is 4 months, one who is premature and the oldest is 21! They support employment once the children leave and as adults, they return to the orphanage. Most of the boys become surfing teachers.

Some of the children are sponsored and donations are received everyday. So I had spent the day touring the home which had over 10 rooms with 8-10beds each and a playground. They had an outdoor playground and two indoor playrooms that are open twice a day. They had enough toys and books that they were no longer accepting them and a kitchen with tables for everyone. They eat three times a day and have snacks (fruits) in between. 

By 1pm four children all 11 years old came to the local market with me. We shopped for food from a wish list such as meat, fruits and toiletries to last them the next month. They were so adorable and extremely grateful. I had spent 500,000IDR which was my budget and we returned that afternoon to cook lunch. We made fried rice with shrimps and ate it late 4pm, I physically couldn't eat the meal as I was still unwell. I stayed on to play with the younger ones who had brilliant English (this made me look bad not knowing their language). Most of the children have parents but parents who are too poor to raise their child. Parents are allowed to stay in contact with their child and even have visits! 

I had noticed the girls had their hair chopped short, all of them. Being in a tight knit place with a lot of other children, head-lice is serious matter. I weren't to be in full contact with the children due to health reasons but I had a fab time and my help was highly appreciated. It was time for me to leave later on that day so I said my goodbyes and joined my driver back on the bike to head back to mine. 

I needed to see a pharmacist so i looked around for one after being told there weren't any. I didn't believe this. I hadn't eaten for two days so I started to feel extremely weak. I found a chemist and rushed inside to find that I was seriously dehydrated from last night's diahorrea. Silly me. I bought Panadol and a rehydration capsule then tried to survive the night. Whenever you travel, do always drink plenty of water and get plenty of rest when feeling nausea. Sucked for me as I lost my appetite to eat and couldn't do anything active. I head to Ubud tomorrow though so I look forward to some prepared action. If I get better. When I get better. 


Monday, 25 May 2015

I've reached Bali!!

day 6/7 

My next flight QZ-555 took 3 hours to get to Bali but obviously I had to be there 57874 hours before. Clearly forced to shop at duty free while waiting for my flight. Immigration was quick! Visa on arrival (VOA) was £26 or 35USD. Some people actually got rejected so it was kind of sad seeing them go to the quarantine only to be sent back. I got to the baggage claim then caught the airport taxi to my hostel which was a nightmare. I went to the taxi counter in duty free and they were charging me 350,000IR. Are you serious?! I went out to the front and hoped to find a cheaper one. The taxi counter out there charged me 250,000 and it was 1am and I was really not having it. Luckily I had already known it cost only 60,000 to get to my hostel and also know the airport is practically next to Kuta. I was very adamant to pay only 60,000 so with all the men throwing my offers of twice the price, I kept saying no. To speed up the process, I lied saying I came last week and paid only 60,000. The results was fascinating as their faces dropped and one random man finally gave in and said yes. BUT he was in a different uniform and flashed me his badge (because I asked for it) too quickly. The man was dark skinned and the face on the badge was more Caucasian. As I followed him, I got a little panicked so when we reached his car, I took a photo of his license plate and noted down his name. I wouldn't even know if it was real!? He was on his phone a lot so I immediately thought he was planning a kidnap. I had thought 'oh this is a plan, it was a plan the whole time'! I quickly said the Lord's Prayer again (I do this like 15 times a day) and prayed His angels are sent to be with me on the journey. I felt calm but then the driver stopped!!!! In the middle of the road. He said I'll be one minute and left the keys in ignition and left the car. I sat there thinking, I'm not going to be kidnapped right? The door was even open so i was thinking someone else with a balaclava would jump in the car and drive me off elsewhere. Within 2 minutes, my driver came back with a box of cigarettes and apologised for the wait. Are you serious? He asked whether I smoked but I rolled my eyes saying smoking is bad. I was dropped off and he was paid. Thank you Jesus!! 
I took myself around the area extremely sober among the crowd and stupidly slept in early AM of 4. 

The next day I took the walk to legian beach after breakfast in the lobby. Breakfast was given on a menu and I chose heavy omelette with watermelon slices and toast and butter. It was so so heated, it was over 30degrees and one of the hottest day I've experienced. Along Jalan Legian where I stay, there are shops after shops, restaurants after restaurants. And I loved it, I loved every one. I walked passed a Jamie's Oliver and thought what an earth it was doing in Bali. I was quite annoyed to find so many western eateries along the street that I find myself walking over an hour for Indonesian more local outside of this street. I hit the beach and it got even more hot and I wasn't sure why!!? The sands were burning my feet making it crisp and the sea was filled with surfers and splashers'. Along the walk, there were so many vendors, surf centres and women with clothes in a basket on their head or by a tree. Every step I took, a man approached me asking whether I wanted to surf, this is all despite seeing me say no not long ago! The walk took me about 2 hours and I got tired and worn out already. 12pm diarrhoea struck me. I felt so sick and everything was put to halt. Last night I opted for Pepsi instead of water (can you believe it was cheaper?!) after my spicy noodles meal. Then I was feeling drowsy and dizzy. For a speedy delivery, get as much rest as you can, take an acute relief tablet, one after every release and drink plenty of water. I drank so much my belly bloated! I ate some vitamin C sweets and soon lost my appetite to eat. I had to head back to my hostel (which felt like years!!!) which is quite a walk from the beach. It was the slowest 3 hours I had spent in bed hoping to get better during my toilet trips but it soon became less frequent after the tablets. 

4pm, I pulled through and planned a trip to the uluwatu temple which is in South of Bali an hour away. On my way there, I saw a Topshop and Marks and Spencer's. In Bali!? On an island?! I had to buy something!!!!! Or did I? I managed to get the car driver to accept 300,000 (about £12) for both ways. This meant he needed to wait for me terr. He name was 'Bruce Lee' on his card apparently (obviously not) but he was Bali-born and bred and very kind! He insisted I drink lots of water by taking me to the shop to buy a new me. And allowed me to lie down flat in the car to rest! The road is busy and there are a million motorbikes!! I was too unwell to take the motorbike taxi there (which would have been a lot cheaper). 

Uluwatu Temple, or Pura Luhur Uluwatu is one of six temples believed to be Bali's spiritual pillars. It is famous for its location, placed on top of a steep cliff 70metres above sea level! Looking down, my heart just jumps every time. This temple provides a really nice sunset backdrop especially for couples. I was lucky to be able to see it as sometimes it's cloudy and people don't see it at all. I had read that Pura Luhur Uluwatu was one of the top places on the island to go to for sunset delights overlooking the Indian Ocean. So I felt that I had to go! It costed 20,000 to get in and you are given a purple sarong or yellow rope and you can also watch the local dance performances but I didn't. Just google it. The Balinese architecture, traditionally-designed gateways, and ancient sculptures made Uluwatu Temple very appealing. I walked all around the temple which took me an hour. It was still very hot and I was still very unwell but that didn't stop me. 

Coming back in the evening, I really needed to rest. All the Aussies were drunk already. It was our Ibiza to their Bali. Music blasted in every bar, shops were closing down and tourists emerged on the street. Because I had slept extremely late last night, I opted for an early night by sitting in the jacuzzi and arranging my next few days. I booked a trip to Ubud by bus for a night, Gili Island by boat for 2 nights and one more night in Kuta before I am due to fly that next day. I truly get my haggling skills from my mum and managed to save thousands on bookings and shopping. I become a friend when I'm a buyer and soon talk money. It always works, especially if they know your name from the start. I really liked Bali today, reminded me of Thailand so it was really nice, the people are nice and speak great English. Tomorrow I move hotels just so I can get a feel of the hospitality and perhaps spoil myself, no definitely spoil myself. I was on vacation before I start work so I felt like I could pretty much do what I wanted. This is one of the benefits of travelling solo. 

Sunday, 24 May 2015

Observed Malaysia

Observed in Malaysia 

- Malaysia is filled with a mixed Asian population with people basically from all around Asia. Some workers are from India and China, some of the tourists are from other parts of Asia! As for other backpackers, I had met people from London (wheyy - Eng-gur-lunddd), Canada, Germany, Toronto and Australia. 

- Jogging is prohibited in a lot of places. You can only do it in the park. 

- the Malayans are extremely generous here, each passer by would give money to a beggar or a blind busker. 

- Burger King, Nandos and McDonald's deliver here. 

- It rains almost everyday here and sometimes with thunder clapping and lighting. Back in England, everyone would be home and scared (or some freakishly fascinated) but here, people are so normal! Almost as though it's not actually raining and they're not soaking wet. erm, are you alright mate? Want an umbrella maybe? 

- People are very small here, especially the women! 

- Fashion in Malaysia is slightly unheard of despite the numerous high street stores, fashion labels and fashion billboards. Women pluck their eyebrows to a large extent, eye shadow is loved here and mini skirts & leggings are popular. 

- everyone speaks great English here.

- Men are openly affectionate in this country, hugging and holding hands but in an extremely friendly manner. Brotherly luuurve. 

- babies here walk at a very young age and there are rarely any pushchairs seen. Young ones are carried or dragged if they have to be.

- there are loads of jobs available for everyone and even some advertising backpackers to work in bars and hotels. 

- Young children are rarely seen, teenagers emerge around 2pm and there are so many young adults. Couples are also a rare sight.

- okay so I've gathered Malaysia promotes a mixed culture. Made up of Chinese and Malays as well as Indians although a few. 

- the country is 100000000% tourist friendly.

- freedom of religion guaranteed as the Chinese are Buddhists or Christians, Malays are Muslim and the Indians Hindus or Muslim or Christians actually. 

- there are far too many shopping malls here. I've seen over 15 in 5days. 

- On some trains they have a 'Ladies Only' Carriage!!! Labelled in Pink with a slogan 'Have a Worry Free Journey' no men or couples allowed it says. Amazing. I have sat in one among the ladies literally worry free.   

- there's a no kissing sign in taxis 

- transport is cheap, food is cheap but drinks and shopping is expensive. Seems like a very unorganised mix.

- there hundreds of independent vendors every where you go. By the road, under the bridge and in the alleys. 

- Healthcare is considered as important and high standard in this city. With some of the best doctors in the region who speak great English, they are able to help you immediately. Thailand is similar with their doctors serving in local pharmacies. 

- When I do see children, they are actually rather rude and stare without even trying to look like they're not. Rather than shy, they don't say much, circle you and don't smile. I saw this as evil to be honest. 

- only on my last day I had photos taken with some locals which was strange and probably be part of their new Facebook profile picture and I will never know. I felt sad that I didn't know much Malay. Only the basics necessary to know like toilet, exit and food. 

Saturday, 23 May 2015

United we stand, divided we fall'

Day 5

It's my last full day today so I took it easy by staying in Kuala Lumpur and going round the city this time. I wanted to take the hop-on and hop-off bus but it was 24RMB (student discount) which was far more than my budget. I decided to go round myself spending up to 10 for any necessary transport. I also took note to take it easy on the spicy food as my toilet trip last night kinda hurt. A non-Malay man followed me all the way to the station from my hostel and even stopped when a student approached me about his communication project. I kept looking back seeing him hovering around my presence. He stood behind me on the escalator and pretended to buy a ticket standing so closely behind me. He asked where the map was, i pointed in a dull way, pretended to browse and left. It was annoying because I had to lose him to come back up the station and I lost a lot of my time! I watched him look for me until he got bored and left. creep. 
However, the locals here are extremely friendly and kind, always willing to help or keen to have a genuinely chat. At first I thought it was pervy but then I gathered it may just be so they can improve/practice their English. I gathered this soon enough not to cry every time a man smiled.

Taking the Monorail to KL Sentral, (One Direction was playing on the speakers and I was pleased for them to be honest, international artists in what less than 5 years) I waited for the B112 Bus to go the national Musuem for the Perdana Botanical Gardens - Lakes Garden Park. I caught this bus from Little India but really you can catch the bus from Pasa Seni LRT area. You can get to Pasa Seni on the GOKL free bus. I was wasting time so I spent the 2RMB instead for the train. 
I waited at the bus stop for a while and the Hop-on Hop-off bus eventually came! They said it was 45Ringits to get on the bus (which is the all day price) but i had only wanted to head to botanical gardens but still 45. I got off the bus thinking they were insane in a sad way and a few moments later I was invited back on the bus to head there for free! It worked! The weather was calm as it had rained during the night so it was warm but not heated. 

I stopped off the Kuala Lumpur National Museum for a educational look around. It costed 5RMB for foreign adults. There was a whole room about traditional tea from all around Asia and even Britain. An early history gallery showing three different eras; Permian era, prehistoric era and proto-historica era. It showed details about rocks in all ages; the Iron Age, Bronze Age, and Metal age. It displayed Homo Sapien remains brought by lab, cave painting and burial goods. In one earth display, it stated that South East Asia was said to be affected during the ice age. Hm
Another gallery showed the development of the Malay kingdoms and empire and trading boats made from the trunk of Batu trees. 

Floor two had the Colonial era gallery and Malaysia today. The colonial era showed battle ships, armies with elephants and canons in the Portuguese, Malacca attack in 1511. They showed information on Matawang, Sabah, Sarawak, Pangkor, British intervention and warriors. The country's crops, tin dredges, communication. I could explain them but they would be too boring for you and you wouldn't come back. 

I had learnt a lot going there and I'm glad I went. There was so much I was unaware of. Interestingly, after the country's liberation from the British Colonial rule in 1957, Malaysia sustained an economical development. Before then, each race (Indian, Chinese and Malayan) was divided and lived poorly. But after independence, there were the first federal elections, construction of buildings, English schools and the British Union Jack flag was lowered while the Malayan flag rose. The first prime minister Tunku Abdul Rahman signalled the birth of Malaysia as a free and sovereign nation - he who led the country to freedom. I was surprised the British are allowed here visa-free! However, during 1948-1960, Malaysia went through problems from communists terrorism (Malayan Emergency). Although it ended, hundreds of people died from their ruthless actions and terror acts. The country is now multi-racial. They celebrated their freedom at the stadium Merdeka (built in 1957 famous for uniting the country - togetherness) singing the national anthem and as a gift from Japan, fireworks. I felt satisfied with my time there so believed i was ready to leave. 

Finally, I headed to Lake Gardens and stayed there for 2 hours as it was so beautiful! It's 257 acre used for recreation and as greenery for a part in the city. The pathway meanders through cultivated gardens and museums. They had edible gardens, herbs gardens and animal sanctuaries. One vast lake and small ones around the area. I had seen families play games together, workers cutting the grass and a couple in their wedding gowns for their wedding photos!! The man was Indian and the woman was Chinese, fantastic mix that is. 

I walked to back KL Sentral station this time realising you can actually walk to the museum and the gardens from there. I was stinking hot and annoyed that I could have walked to the garden in the first place but I wouldn't have known. CIMB (office building) stands between the station and the national museum so if you walk out of the taxi entrance of the station, turn right toward CIMB, and walk around it turning left then right and cross the road, cross the bridge and walk down the stairs. Straight down turn left for the gardens or your inner right to the museum! So simple or is it? 

I walked passed Pasa Seno and towards Medan Pasar then to Masjid Jamek then the Merdeka Square (Sultan Abdul Samad Building). They had a Unesco event going on and a section for celebrating women in science which was really nice. Music was played live by children and dance was performed but it was basic movements. Turn left twice, right hands in the air then turn around and shake left hip four times. The Merdeka Square was the place where the Malaysian flag was raised for the first time to replace the Union Jack. It signifies the end of British rule over Malaya and end of colonisation. Regardless of race and belief, everything came together here for big events. The 95meter flagpole is one of the tallest in the world. 

I strolled around despite feeling tired  with swollen feet. I sat down to rest and a spiderfly bit my leg when I thought it was just fluff so that was annoying. Anyway, it was nice to have come from the museum knowing about Merdeka Square and actually understand what the landmarks were. I walked to the nearby food street which was stupid money and watched a live performance by two Malayans singing about not listening to what people have to say about you. It was more poetry. Aggressive poetry.

It was hitting 6.30pm and I walked toward the Night Market ~ Pasar Malam (Lorong Tuanku Abdul Rahman) off Jalan Masjid India. I spent hours there as the street was so so so long and there were a million stalls. I watched people walk on and cookers serving their food. It was so busy but the night lights made it so colourful and joy to be there. 

For dinner, i stopped at one stall that had a huge soup pot and men singing a Bob Marley tune. I ate Laksa, from Penang. It looked like udon (maybe it was) in wet lemongrass soup. It had half a boiled egg, chillies, cucumber and chopped lettuce. It was absolutely delicious for just 4RMB, my cheapest meal. 

I walked back to Pasa Seni which took 20minutes and caught the GO KL Free Bus back to my hostel. It was bedtime then and I was glad. 

Friday, 22 May 2015

Still in Malaysia!

Day 4


For my 5 days stay in KL, I had an £80 budget including accommodation (£40) and food. I managed 50RMB maximum a day but you can easily manage 25RMB (£5) a day depending on what you do. For a day, breakfast would be included in your accommodation presumably, lunch would cost 5RMB if a simple sandwich, food and a drink would be roughly 11RMB for dinner, 10RMB for transport, up to 20RMB for any tours or day trips with paying entrance, 10RMB saved for taxi trips and the rest for naughty snacks when you're hungry.

I'm actually here longer than it feels. Highlight of today was the Genting Highlands which they call the Las Vegas of Malaysia North East of Kuala Lumpur.
Taking the 10.30am Genting Express bus (one comes every hour) for 4.30RMB (or MYL4.30), I sat in seat 28 and waited to leave and it left bang on time. It was 30 degrees today and I was stuck in a freezing bus. I tell you, I really don't like Air Conditioning. I'd rather strip naked in the heat. Actually no I wouldn't, but shivering in the cold? you know what I don't actually know. I'll stop here. 

As we were climbing up the hill, my ears kept popping!! But we were going higher and higher and higher. We arrived Genting Highlands skyway station at 11.30am to catch the skyway cable car WHICH I WAS SO EXCITED FOR (main reason why I went, no not really, well is that bad?) it goes 2 miles up above vegetation (longest South East Asian cable car - one of the fastest in the world). At the top are 4 hotels, one being the largest in the world with over 6,000 rooms (nightmare!) and apartments. Basically, it's a very large resort with world's leading integrated leisure and entertainment. Opened in 1971 with continuing construction (they are still building stuff today) by Tan Sri Dr Lim Goh Tong who passed away in 2007. He passed on the reigns to his second son. What about the first one? hm awkward.

They have an indoor and outdoor theme park, shopping malls, theatres and concerts for mega shows including cabaret and casinos arenas. They have three large Casinos but you must play if you enter so I pretended to search for a game and quickly left before I was thrown out. You also had to be 21 but I got away with it so no surprises. You weren't allowed to take photos which is an obvious rule but I was so tempted to video a group going crazy over their win!! A lot of people were 'gambling' and chewing gum and smoking while fidgeting with their belly button. They all looked high!! There were no windows at all so it was dark with loads of waste-of-electricity lights (again is this an obvious point?). You were also allowed smoke in there as well as in the lobby out in the hall. If that's not weird then do excuse me again as casinos don't actually appeal to me so I don't know much about them. Funny that there are loads of ATMS and Western Union exchange centres located around the casino. In one of them, there was a restaurant called 'Good Luck' - scary no?

When I was there the AGT winners illuminate (evil name) were performing as guest appearance at the Times Square Plaza. They flash body lights in the dark and dance, whoopee do. So the famous First World Hotel has a Plaza and two towers. Everything is expensive man and the entrance is like an airport! In this area they have the world biggest indoor theme park and pretty much everything else. Maxims is one hotel, Genting Grand is another with a 'Vision city' Arcade that play RnB music!? isn't that crazy? Resort hotel is also another but I saw no difference. 

When walking along the halls to reach to the next place, they had a unisex hairdressers and beauty spa. Again, you will see everything, anything for you. You can't really walk outside as its one big resort with a million slow escalators taking you to different floors within the building. Apart from the mountain view, outside is actually appealing. This may be to do with the clouds hogging up my view. I made my way back to the skyway station to buy a ticket to return to land (which by the way costed more than my transport back to the city?!). Problem was, it started to rain!!! And when it rains, it beats your head hard a million times per second and it starts to thunderclap and lightning flashes. So there's me thinking whether I'm actually brave enough to sit in a cable car for 20minutes while there's a 'Storm' happening!! I went on it anyway as I had to catch my city bus in time and I couldn't see a thing. Fog, clouds, fluffy stuff or whatever was blocking my view! My car was wobbly and I did not dare move. From time to time, I could see the forest below me but I nearly cried when my thoughts became evil and disturbing. I made it to the other end anyway but it was one of the most uncomfortable feelings I have had to go through. All I had was my faith, it's all i still have now! 

I caught the bus back to KL Sentral but ofcourse it was still raining and I was uphill by the cliff edge. But hey, I fell asleep and I arrived already! I walked to Brickfields AKA Little India and strolled the double street. I was gutted to not be able to head to (the real) India but it was a nice alternative going there. Literally, you would have stepped into India. The people are local, the shops and eateries are Indian and the street design has been created in an Indian manner. The men looked on but in a keen way so I had to hurry on. I moved on and strolled passed so many independent vendors and shops, I passed another shopping mall which had Next!? If you stand and wait to cross the road you will be waiting for ages. People usually dodge the cars and run across but obviously me being well behaved, I would wait up to 11 minutes to cross. I saw a hearing centre and a man trying out his hearing aids at the front door step for the first time. An audiologist was clapping his hands next to the man's ears and asked him a question. I stood to watch this and was pleased to see the people of Malay getting the assistance they would need. Weirdly after seeing this, I saw two men signing in Malay by the road but I was too far to catch what they may be saying or to approach them. They were extremely expressive and unlike England, people walked on and did not take notice! If I had signed dramatically in the middle of London, I'm pretty sure I would form a circle and people would look on and clap 'bravo'. You English people suck, learn about deaf people and look away. It's 2K15 and you all still confused/fascinated by this 'disability'. 

Anyway, I had noticed that there are so many job vacancy notices and some even inviting walk in interviews!? Everywhere I go there is work available; even application posters on doors and buses. I had wondered what the employment rate was in Malaysia so I planned to find out. From there, you could walk to Tun Sambanthan station which would take about 10minutes. The train was packed so I had to wait for another 2 to squeeze into. I took the monorail to Huang Tuah and walked all the way to Bukit Bintang. 

People on their motorbikes tend to wear their jackets on their front leaving an open zipper on their back. I don't get that. I've seen that a lot as well. It's definitely better to walk or take public transport than drive or take a taxi as the traffic can get really bad and annoying. 
People really smoke cigarettes here but whenever I pass one, I find that it really stinks! I don't smoke at all so being in a heated city and someone is smoking next to you, you'd wanna cry and end up suffocating.

Anyway. 

So the evening comes and every day I like to go somewhere different for dinner and this time I went to Imbi, Jalan Bulan road opposite Beraya Times Square. I ate at Khalid Curry House for 6Ringits. I had Roti Chanai Plain and chicken rice with soup. I was by the road up a level with a colourful view. I popped into The Berjaya Times Square mall and found that it is manly Asia franchise and brands. You do see international my recognised brands here though like Baskin Robbins, Sony and Adidas. I found Krispy Kreme and VERY naughtily I bought the Oreo doughnut and OH MY GOODNESS, it was just painstakingly GORGEOUS. It melted in my mouth with a crunch and I wanted to cry. Seriously. It was 60p so I'm not allowed cola tomorrow. I went into Plaza Sungei Wang for a quick stroll but unless your phone is broken or you need a charger, don't go in there. Pointless. It was stupid hot when I walked back out heading back to to Bukit Bintang. I went to view the Pavilion KL across the road which is a shopping mall. On my way there I saw Debenams!? Oh come on?! Pavilion has exclusive designer boutiques and restaurants over 7 floors but of course I didn't go to all the floors. They actually have loads of shopping malls here, almost for no reason though and they all look the same. Starhill gallery, Lot 10, Low Yat Plaza, Midvalley Megamall and Fahrenheit are two other shopping malls right next to each other. Well it's a 5minute walk apart but still?!

It's my last day tomorrow so I'm going to stay local and head to the last must-see places. The good thing about staying this long is taking my time. I am leaving at a good time and I am able to see everything in the list which you don't get to do often! 

Thursday, 21 May 2015

Malaysian and a tourist!

So I'm based in Bukit Bintang which is a Golden Triangle and the place to be meaning Star Hill! My room view is 'Asian Piccadilly Circus' and H&M is 2 mins across the road! It's packed with shopping places open until 10pm daily, food from all countries in Asia (and Western but why would you even), hotels cheap and expensive and sophisticated and trashy nightlife.

Day 2 
I try to avoid any organised tours and trips with a guide as I'd rather do it my way and actually see more for myself. Especially by making my own way there and breaking any barriers myself. I feel free to wander off and check out areas that seem interesting. I avoid doing this at night though, you should too. 

I had spent my morning in KL Sentral taking the Monorail for 2.10RMB from Bukit Bintang. The weather was extremely heated and still but manageable. I walked to Pasa Seni which is on the Kelana Jaya Line for the Central Market for their colourful and arty markets, Pentaling Street also known as Chinatown for its original Chinese quarter of Kuala Lumpur and Jalan Masjid 'little' India where you will find Indian businesses and a major Indian population. I browsed carefully in hope to return the next day. 

Through the shopping mall at KL Sentral was the station and I was surprised to see Dorothy Perkins, dominos(er you whuh?), bodyshop and Auntie Anne's. Malaysia is obviously far more developed than I had imagined. I still couldn't believe how settled I had felt here, it felt like I was one of them. 

While Kuala Lumpur is not graded along with the likes of Hong Kong's shopping quality, they still have the famous international brands for millionaire(!) bank accounts but again, you ain't here for that. Yeah you have money, we get it. 

In the afternoon, I took the KTM Komuter to Batu Caves for 2RMB one way - they don't actually do returns here (NUS Card not accepted). The overground train comes every 30minutes and takes about 30 minutes to get there so it's a pain if you miss one. Batu Caves is a cave temple halfway up a limestone massif. 80m by 100m which is 260ft by 330ft so very high up. The Hindus used this cave temple to pray in the 1800s and Murugan who was the only deity worshipped was represented by his vel (trident). Today this vel sits in the Temple Cave I visited. Unexpectedly, there were monkeys hanging around, literally, staring at people to attack. Do fear the monkeys because I have never been so scared of one!? Anything open in your hands they will grab but phones and cameras they may not. I have seen so many crisps and water bottles grabbed from a sneaky monkey with people begging for them back!! I quickly walked up the long steps and entered the cave with my hands tight around my bag. Rude! If you do go, remember to wear something that covers your knees and shoulders or pay 5RMB for a scarf. I went up to see the Shrine and the inside of the caves in a peaceful look-around. On my way out I was shocked to see so many pigeons as there aren't any in the city; there were also chickens just lying around looking for trouble. I also hated how warm my water bottle gets soon after buying it from a fridge or ice box, although they are cheap, they are useless after 10minutes. 

For dinner at Bukit Bintang, I went extremely local walking down the back of the Main Street where I had chicken rice for £1 (5RMB). It came with boiled rice, vegetable soup, pepper sauce and drowned cut cucumber under sliced chicken breast. For the first time I saw three lady boys in Malaysia dining where I was. The constant flicking of the hair and giggly talk, I tried not to look too much but it was just like Thailand all over again. I wonder how the country takes it, I needed to know. Since then, I had seen a few when I really paid attention. Seriously great work.

Day 3
28 degrees today with no sign of the sun?!. I was so excited to head to the Forest Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM) that I got up first thing and made way. After a typical breakfast of toast and tea, I took the convenience KL Monorail toward KL Sentral which took 16minutes to change for the KTM to Kepong Station for 1.30RMB. Not all trains come on time, to be honest, it feels like they come when they want. Sitting in the lady carriage, it was quiet and calm and everyone was on their phones!

I arrived Kepong after only 15minutes and waited an hour for a taxi but there was none to be seen! I gave up and headed to Kepong Sentral which is further away but I was more likely to find a taxi! It rained lightly very briefly which was a relief. Rather than an umbrella, I had prepared a sporty waterproof bucket hat and a raincoat. Umbrellas are just effort, especially to carry around. I had finally found a taxi from the main station and it costed me 9.25RMB to get to the place as its a highway route so it's impossible to walk (well not really but about an hour uphill, no not today). I also had to pay 5RMB plus .30RMB for tax at the security entrance. I should have walked in but I walked back and I don't regret it anymore. It was 2 miles back out the entrance!!!! I had dragged along my insect repellent and spray for the walk around! 

FRIM is one of the world's oldest research centres hidden away in the hills of NorthWest Kuala Lumpur. It has a tropical lowland of vegetation across 1,480 acres. They also have some of the world's oldest and rarest trees. Within the forest, they have nature trails and one led to the Canopy Walkway which is a rope and ladder walkway at 100ft high above the forest floor - scientifically used to study canopy-level flora. Sadly I didn't get to go on the famous walkway as I was too late to register and pay. I had wasted valuable time waiting for a taxi that was never going to arrive in Kepong! Gutted. Anyway, i didn't mind. I trekked the other trails using the man-made steps all the way up to the top. In one route, there was a sign saying that the management and organisation were not liable for any deaths or injuries so when I began my walk, I was 100000000% careful. During my walk, there were a number of waterfalls but ones you can't swim in or swim at your own risk as well as people having a picnic. Some were exercising and some were sitting. I love being among the trees and walking through the natural habitat. It was a fab day trip out of the city despite the rain and frightening thunder. 
Again, monkeys were present and I kept my distance very clearly. 

I walked out of FRIM and waited for a taxi in the rain, I was soaked and slightly cold but I couldn't complain. After waiting 30minutes, I walked on. Waited again, still no taxis stopped when i flagged! Walked for another 30minutes up the hill and across the bridge through people's homes and small restaurants. I soon gave up and approached a stall to help me get a taxi since they were Malay. Maybe it would help?
Seemed like it did, finally in the taxi in the crappy traffic (it was a meter taxi so you can understand my pain). I paid 8.50RMB when the driver said 9. On the meter it said 8.25, he said 9, I said no. I didn't want to get in an argument so I gave him 9 and waited for my change. I let him off .25. I was wet, tired and impatient, in a good way.

I caught the next train back to KL Sentral (one comes every 30minutes which actually became annoying having to wait especially when you've just missed one) and headed to Pentaling Street in a lazy route via the KTM air-tram and bagged some souvenirs for home. There was a man on the lady coach and all the ladies were giving him such evils. He sat in fear on the edge of his seat and seemed like he was in a hurry to leave. My clothes were still soaked and I was relying on the heated air to dry them up. The air conditioning on the train really didn't help. I had ice cream anyway from 7/11 and strolled around (I know! I was craving). A Malay Indian approached me asking for my number which was weird because why would I give you my number? 'Oh hey, yeah let's hook up, I'd love to date you and marry you even though I live all the way in London and am only here for 5 days(!)' I can never understand why men bother especially when they are old (around 40-50) with children who go to school and still make their daddies 'I love you card'. Darling, go back to your stall and call your wife. Tell her you love her dearly and can't wait to be home. Hmph. 

In the matter of mapping, I failed to find Botanical Gardens (a place of interest) which apparently was an hour walk from where I was and taxis costed 30RMB. Oh I think not, I planned to head there the next day. Instead, I jumped on the GO KL Free Bus to KL Tower which actually took a million years. Well it felt like it anyway.

I arrived Manera Kuala Lumpur (KL Tower) after 15 minutes at 7.05pm. I went on the free shuttle bus up to the entrance and went up a short escalator for the free view at the immediate observation deck. It was opened in July 1996 and is currently the tallest building in South East Asia. 6th tallest telecommunication tower in the world. Located west of the Petronas Twin Towers, bang on the middle of Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve so it's actually quite far apart. It offered me a scenic 360degree view of the city but beware as it is 52RMB to go all the way up the actual observation deck (1st level of the tower head). Level 1 is free and they have a balcony you can walk around to have a look at 'a not so' high level but it's okay if you wanted to save the 52RMB (just google the view). Sometimes the tower is used for extreme sports events such as Base Jumping and Towerthon (a race up the tower). It is also available for weddings with a view - hmm an idea? They have a revolving restaurant at 160RMB per person and a theatre for events. 

I was soon hungry so I headed back to Bukit Bintang and opted for dinner at Jalan Alor street (identical to Khaosan Road in Thailand) for a 6.50RMB meal at Cu Cha Restoran before heading back the hostel to plan my next day. I had chicken noodle soup and bought a cheaper drink (shandy) from the nearest shop! By then I was knackered and my feet were nasty!